Can't get the patch to stick to the hose. I've tried now twice. So third time lucky, I put the rubber solution on, left it for a minute, put patch number 3 on, and THEN applied a few lengths of DUCT tape around it to (hopefully) help it to bond. I guess I'll leave it now til tomorrow and hope for the best.
overheating
- Thread starter madder
- Start date
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Ok, so after 10 minutes driving I flipped the bonnet, and it was leaking a bit. I decided to bite the bullet and got out, left the car running, put the heat up full blast and see if radweld plus could find it. I think it may well have found it. I'll report back later on after I've removed all the DUCT tape.
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Still leaking. Not as freely, but leaking anyway. One of the Dublin Toyota dealers thinks he might have the top hose in stock, he'll confirm tomorrow. Question is, are the easy to install? Can I simply remove the old and fit the new without releasing the coolant? My current top hose seems to have 2 clips holding it in place? Are the difficult to open/close etc?
Squeeze the ends of those horrors, and move them back from the radiator stub. Twist the hose before pulling it back and chuck those clamps away.
If its just the top hose, you'll lose a pint of coolant, including whats in the expansion bottle.
Fit new Jubilee type worm drive hose clips slackly to the new hose and push it on. Tighten the clips, replenish the coolant.
Sorted!
John
If its just the top hose, you'll lose a pint of coolant, including whats in the expansion bottle.
Fit new Jubilee type worm drive hose clips slackly to the new hose and push it on. Tighten the clips, replenish the coolant.
Sorted!
John
Funny story guys. I cannot find the top hose I need in any Toyota dealer in Dublin. Now, they can order one, and I will place an order on monday. I COULD go to a breakers yard but I'm thinking a worn top hose could be nearly ready to start leaking itself. So, I did a little research and found this little beauty........
Rescue Tape.
Google it, Youtube it etc.
I have wrapped it around the hose and here I am a couple of hours later, telling you that there is no leak. It's seemingly fixed. Now, I don't know how long it'll last but it doesn't seem like it's gonna quit anytime soon.
It's silicon based tape which stretches and wraps around the hose, fold it over itself along a portion of the hose. It is heat resistant up to 260 degrees celsius. It's water resistant, oil resistant, acid resistant, Salt resistant, UV ray resistant, and it's not sticky. I would recommend it highly.
Rescue Tape.
Google it, Youtube it etc.
I have wrapped it around the hose and here I am a couple of hours later, telling you that there is no leak. It's seemingly fixed. Now, I don't know how long it'll last but it doesn't seem like it's gonna quit anytime soon.
It's silicon based tape which stretches and wraps around the hose, fold it over itself along a portion of the hose. It is heat resistant up to 260 degrees celsius. It's water resistant, oil resistant, acid resistant, Salt resistant, UV ray resistant, and it's not sticky. I would recommend it highly.
OK guys. Here's another update. I'm still waiting on my top hose from Toyota, but here, after just over a week with the rescue tape in place it started to leak very slightly and so I checked the coolant reservoir. It was low but not empty. I topped it up to full and topped up the radiator also. I put some more rescue tape around the hose and sealed the leak again. However, today after a 45 minute drive, I noticed the thermostat was showing fairly high. It wasn't in the red but it was 3/4 the way up when it usually peaks around half way. So when I got home, I checked under the hood. I could hear what souned like bubbling or boiling water coming from the top hose area, but it wasn't leaking at all. But then I noticed that the coolant reservoir was completely full. Not just up to the line marked full, but up to the absolute top where the cap sits. So it seems to have been too full and syphoned some back from the radiator.
Anybody got any advice info for me as to what might be going on?
Anybody got any advice info for me as to what might be going on?
It sounds like you have some air in the system which expands more with heat than liquid so pushes up into the expansion vessel.
It must be stuck somewhere so try running the engine when it has cooled and squeeze the pipes etc... And make sure the heating is set to full.
It must be stuck somewhere so try running the engine when it has cooled and squeeze the pipes etc... And make sure the heating is set to full.
When the engine is stone cold, remove the radiator cap and pour water in until it is completely brim full - then replace the cap. Then, adjust the coolant level in the expansion bottle until it is on the max level, and run the engine as normal.
You may have a thermostat problem, but these cars have a rad cap that works two ways - expanded water is allowed to run into the expansion bottle, but is then allowed back into the rad when things cool. The system only works when the rad is brim full.
John
You may have a thermostat problem, but these cars have a rad cap that works two ways - expanded water is allowed to run into the expansion bottle, but is then allowed back into the rad when things cool. The system only works when the rad is brim full.
John
Thanks guys.
@ gblades.... If there is air in the cooling system, should I wait for the car to cool down completely, remove the radiator cap and start the engine until the bubbling stops? Or something like that?
@ Burnerman Do you think the radiator will have space for water? The reason I ask is because I topped it and the reservoir up before I went out at all. I was stunned to find the reservoir on the verge of overflowing when I checked afterwards.
I'm happy enough to try either or both of these options on the advice of you guys as you've both been very hepful to me in the past and with this current issue. Thanks.
@ gblades.... If there is air in the cooling system, should I wait for the car to cool down completely, remove the radiator cap and start the engine until the bubbling stops? Or something like that?
@ Burnerman Do you think the radiator will have space for water? The reason I ask is because I topped it and the reservoir up before I went out at all. I was stunned to find the reservoir on the verge of overflowing when I checked afterwards.
I'm happy enough to try either or both of these options on the advice of you guys as you've both been very hepful to me in the past and with this current issue. Thanks.
What has probably happened is that due to the leak in the hose when the engine cools rather than pulling the liquid back out of the expansion tank its pulling in air through the leak instead. This air block reaches the water pump and stops it pumping the water properly so then engine starts to overheat.
Allowing the engine to cool is just for safety. You will need to start the engine. put the internal heater onto full (to make sure no air is in the heater matrix) and then repeatedly squeeze the hoses with the lid off the expansion tank and this will push air up into it and pull back the liquid when you release the hose.
Allowing the engine to cool is just for safety. You will need to start the engine. put the internal heater onto full (to make sure no air is in the heater matrix) and then repeatedly squeeze the hoses with the lid off the expansion tank and this will push air up into it and pull back the liquid when you release the hose.
Only thing here is that the lid of the expansion tank has a hose connected to it which basically pushes coolant into the radiator when needed or sucks coolant out of the radiator if it's too full. So if I remove that cap then I don't see how it can pull the liquid back? Maybe my brain is in the off switch and I'm missing something obvious in your explanation?
I do have a cap on the Radiator itself also?
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