Permitted methods of joining t&e
- Thread starter smp50
- Start date
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Bureacratically (per Mr Jobsworth) that's true - but, AFAIAA, they did not change the boxes, but merely added the 'MF' marking and included instructions as to how to use Wago connectors within them for them to be compliant with MF requirements. Once old stocks are all sold, I presume that all Wago boxes will bear the MF label.
Kind Regards, John
In common sense terms, that isn't much of an issue if they're inaccessible. However, I believe the answer is that you're meant to put a cable tie or somesuch through the (provided) lug; the knife, cutters, scissors or whatever required to gain acess will then count as a 'tool'!
Kind Regards, John
It appears I misunderstood the inference of the word "tool" in my last post. My apologies. I've been reading too many long threads today that seem to degenerate into, for wont of a better description, cat fights.
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You didn't necessarily misunderstand - you could add whatever you had in mind to my list, if you felt it could successfully release a cable tie
Kind Regards, John
Me neither. I will if I really have to do a through joint on a cable, but that's all I'll do if the joint is to be inaccesible.
I won't 'tee' into a cable or do a loop in joint etc. anywhere that can't be accessed at a later date.
I still don't trust these MF junction boxes enough to stash them away where you'll never get at them again.
FWIW, same here.
Indeed - and, as you know, I personally don't really trust crimped joints enough to be very comfortable with them being 'eternally inaccessible', either - soldered is about the only thing I might feel a little more comfortable about, and that only if I knew and trusted the person who'd done the soldering! As for what sort of 'legacy' joints still exist in a few places in my house, that's a secretI still don't trust these MF junction boxes enough to stash them away where you'll never get at them again.
Kind Regards, John
So what's the best way of leaving a switch junction accessible then if the light isn't big enough to hold the connections?
So far with larger lights I've been able to cut large enough holes in the plaster board to place a Wago box on the joist and back boxes with Wago connectors & a blanking plate.
But the ones I'm wondering about are wall lights with a small footprint on the wall. Not enough room in many of the switches to cope with all the cables (or room to run them down the wall without making a mess. Could fit back boxes at the top of the wall but might not always look nice. Is there a better way - running all the cables to a distribution box?
At the moment the junction boxes are on joists but require carpets and floor boards to be lifted to get at them.
So far with larger lights I've been able to cut large enough holes in the plaster board to place a Wago box on the joist and back boxes with Wago connectors & a blanking plate.
But the ones I'm wondering about are wall lights with a small footprint on the wall. Not enough room in many of the switches to cope with all the cables (or room to run them down the wall without making a mess. Could fit back boxes at the top of the wall but might not always look nice. Is there a better way - running all the cables to a distribution box?
At the moment the junction boxes are on joists but require carpets and floor boards to be lifted to get at them.
I nearly always loop in at the switch these days.
If you are fitting wall lights, you can install a besa box or an architrave switch box behing the fitting to make your joint in. Ceiling lights you can use a round drylining box, although there's nearly always enogh room providing you dress your cables properly.
If you are fitting wall lights, you can install a besa box or an architrave switch box behing the fitting to make your joint in. Ceiling lights you can use a round drylining box, although there's nearly always enogh room providing you dress your cables properly.
Got to say that, if new install being done, that is now my preferred method.
a). Future proofs for remote switching that will require a neutral supply.
b). Saves the strain on my poor neck at the ceiling rose.
I think I could use some switches but not easy if it's double or triple gang and the wall s would need chasing to accomodate the wires.
Definately give the box behind the light fitting a go. Many thanks.
Definately give the box behind the light fitting a go. Many thanks.
S
SaladFingers
Indeed - and, as you know, I personally don't really trust crimped joints enough to be very comfortable with them being 'eternally inaccessible', either - soldered is about the only thing I might feel a little more comfortable about, and that only if I knew and trusted the person who'd done the soldering! As for what sort of 'legacy' joints still exist in a few places in my house, that's a secret
Kind Regards, John
There's only one person I've ever known to not like crimps and prefer solder.
Have we met in the past?
Do you play guitar at all?
There are those who believe crimps should not be used on solid cores.
S
SaladFingers
I like crimping, it has a satisfying feeling, especially hydraulic crimping.
That information is out-of-date. You now know of two - but please note that 'prefer' is only a relative term; I am not comfortable with any sort of 'seriously inaccessible' joint (e.g. buried in paster).
I doubt it, and 'no', respectively.
Kind Regards, John
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