6 displayed in the right hand display window indicates that the boiler is running at full output, this is usually when the cylinder sensor is calling for heat.
Tim
Tim
Problem with new Intergas boiler install. HRE 18 OV
- Thread starter dcuk
- Start date
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If it's a classical S plan then I think that parameter should be set to 3. Setting it to 1 is for when you wire a cylinder sensor or thermostat directly to the boiler, which I'm guessing hasn't been done. It's now expecting something to be connected across a couple of terminals to signal that it can stop trying to heat the hot water cylinder. This isn't there so it probably will run more.
If a boiler runs fine in test mode but not when you use the timer this often points to the external controls. So I would start at boiler terminal that gets the switched live signal from the controls and work back from there. First question as it's a Y plan, what voltage are you getting at X2.1?
Can we get this right please.
Status 6 is the boiler firing under hot water mode either looking for a cylinder, or think I no it is a combi.
In the op ' s case like, hufty said, there are no wires to terminals 9 and 10 so it thinks it has to heat a cylinder now the op has been playing.
In this mode the boiler behaves more like it does in the test mode hence he thinks it is working better.
How good the engineer is when he turns up I have no idea. But best p up the poor boiler back to factory settings before he does. Plugging external cylinders directly into these things is not common practice. It might fox the uninitiated.
Bet it's something daft like the pump on backwards
.
Edit.... saw hufty was heading down the same path RE looking for non existent cylinders.
Status 6 is the boiler firing under hot water mode either looking for a cylinder, or think I no it is a combi.
In the op ' s case like, hufty said, there are no wires to terminals 9 and 10 so it thinks it has to heat a cylinder now the op has been playing.
In this mode the boiler behaves more like it does in the test mode hence he thinks it is working better.
How good the engineer is when he turns up I have no idea. But best p up the poor boiler back to factory settings before he does. Plugging external cylinders directly into these things is not common practice. It might fox the uninitiated.
Bet it's something daft like the pump on backwards
.Edit.... saw hufty was heading down the same path RE looking for non existent cylinders.
Hufty,
I am not the installer, just the customer so unable to test voltages or take off covers, etc.
I have however tried the following, as suggested by a member of another forum. This is what I wrote there:
I just tried with your recommended settings on the parameters:
1 = 1
2 = 3
It ran well, just as before when it was 1 = 1 and 2 = 0 .
I ran it for a while with both Hot water and Central heating set to "constant on" on the programmer. Room stat set to 20 degrees.
The heaters all warmed up perfectly, hot water flowing into cylinder, everything seemed fine.
I then switched off central heating on the programmer, leaving just hot water. By this time, the water had warmed up to a very nice temperature at the taps. The boiler then started to slow down and get quieter, eventually shutting down and showing code "1". The boiler would then come on again after 5 minutes or so, run for a bit, then turn off.
This seems like it was doing what its supposed to do?
I then turned off hot water and left just the central heating on. The heaters were all very hot and the house warmed up great. The only thing is, I didn't notice the boiler slow down or go quieter and it didn't shut down. But once again, it just felt like it was working properly but as my previous boiler was an old Potterton Netaheat Non-condensing boiler, I am unsure of how a condensing boiler behaves normally. Therefore, I switched it all off, just in-case it overheats or something, and because I am not sure if this is the correct way to operate it.
I wanted to ask you, is this hot water mode ok to run, and what is the essential difference between this and central heating mode, as the boiler is just providing the heat and everything else controlled by the zone valve, thermostats and programmer.
Thanks
I am not the installer, just the customer so unable to test voltages or take off covers, etc.
I have however tried the following, as suggested by a member of another forum. This is what I wrote there:
I just tried with your recommended settings on the parameters:
1 = 1
2 = 3
It ran well, just as before when it was 1 = 1 and 2 = 0 .
I ran it for a while with both Hot water and Central heating set to "constant on" on the programmer. Room stat set to 20 degrees.
The heaters all warmed up perfectly, hot water flowing into cylinder, everything seemed fine.
I then switched off central heating on the programmer, leaving just hot water. By this time, the water had warmed up to a very nice temperature at the taps. The boiler then started to slow down and get quieter, eventually shutting down and showing code "1". The boiler would then come on again after 5 minutes or so, run for a bit, then turn off.
This seems like it was doing what its supposed to do?
I then turned off hot water and left just the central heating on. The heaters were all very hot and the house warmed up great. The only thing is, I didn't notice the boiler slow down or go quieter and it didn't shut down. But once again, it just felt like it was working properly but as my previous boiler was an old Potterton Netaheat Non-condensing boiler, I am unsure of how a condensing boiler behaves normally. Therefore, I switched it all off, just in-case it overheats or something, and because I am not sure if this is the correct way to operate it.
I wanted to ask you, is this hot water mode ok to run, and what is the essential difference between this and central heating mode, as the boiler is just providing the heat and everything else controlled by the zone valve, thermostats and programmer.
Thanks
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Hufty, never seen these suffering from stray volts like Wooshitter Botch.... Have you?
No, the boiler will think there is a permanent call for heat if it is looking for a cylinder that isn't there.
Everything else might be controlled, but the boiler isn't.
Blimey. I feel like someone as clicked the "ignore Dan" button this weekend
Out of interest where I London are you?
Keep us posted with your progress.
If you get stuck, I cover your area - but you'd have to wait a couple of weeks.
If you get stuck, I cover your area - but you'd have to wait a couple of weeks.
If it is any consolation, I'm not convinced the boiler is at fault.
These things can't be any simpler though... It only has two moving parts and 2 temperature sensors
These things can't be any simpler though... It only has two moving parts and 2 temperature sensors
I agree, that's what makes it even more frustrating. Knowing the boiler is most probably fine, but just been installed or setup incorrectly.
I don't regret going for one of these though, the quality of design and engineering is apparent as soon as the cover is off.
I don't regret going for one of these though, the quality of design and engineering is apparent as soon as the cover is off.
The frustrating thing from my point of view is that 90% of them are installed doing less than half of the things they can do simply because the features are not documented enough and the typical UK boiler installer doesn't care enough to make the most of the product he works with.
Christ - I sound like Alec now
Christ - I sound like Alec now
One of the things I was hoping to learn about the temperatures of the two pipes was if the water flow was in the correct direction!
Those who do manufacturer's breakdowns come across so many very silly installer's mistakes. Even sadder that they don't know how to identify their mistakes!
I still don't think there is anything wrong with the boiler!
Tony
Those who do manufacturer's breakdowns come across so many very silly installer's mistakes. Even sadder that they don't know how to identify their mistakes!
I still don't think there is anything wrong with the boiler!
Tony
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