Problem with new Intergas boiler install. HRE 18 OV

I cant be the only one that wants this to be a boiler fault. Are the mighty IG starting to falter a bit now there are more being fitted.


OP - keep us updated on this as there are a few intergas fans on this forum
 
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Obviously the more units fitted, the more faults we will hear of.

However, as with most boilers, I suspect the majority of faults will be installer's !

When I used to do warranty repairs for a boiler maker, the call centre weeded out most of the installer errors but still about 30% were down to wrong installation. More if not cleaning properly was included!

Tony
 
Intergas are not a new product. I look after a few older Intergas units, one being an Atmos InterOpen HE20 installed in 2005. All it has failed on is the spark generator last year. Yes they are not faultless, no manufacturer is.



James.
 
I think the 5th January 2005 was our first InterCombi HE32.

Still running fine as far as I know... they've not had it serviced since 2012 so waiting for the call about ignition failure coming soon (blocked knuckle).

:LOL: :LOL:
 
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Dan,

I tried it on hot water only mode on the programmer this morning ( this being a cold start before any of the usual premature shut downs).

It ran, but only for 2 minutes, maybe less. Then shut down and showed a code "1" on display.

I then tried just central heating, with room stat still off, the boiler showed code "0" for thirty seconds, then went off and the display went blank, the code "1" from before didn't come back.

I turned on room stat and code "1" reappears, boiler then starts up and runs for 5 minutes, shuts down to a code "1" again.


JBPHS,

I changed the temperature to 70 degrees as you instructed which made no difference at all. The original temperature was 80.

I will try and get a pic of the PCB wiring.


Agile,


I checked the pipes. The one going into the right hand side hole gets warmer first and is always hotter. According to the manual, this hole is labelled "Flow" and the one on the left is "Return".
 
Well at least they pipes it the right way round.

But there is no system circulation though and the boiler is just turning itself off thinking things are hot.

How far above the boiler is the pump and airing cupboard?


Pictures of the installation would help.
 
Did you get the opportunity to increase parameter 8?

The Intergas heat exchanger has a large thermal mass, so "if" poor circulation is a contributory factor, the pump will be able to continue moving system water through the heat exchanger after the factory set one minute pump over run period and so extract heat from the aluminium block to the point where the boiler fires up once more.

Although what you have posted up points towards a wiring error on the controls/three port valve side of things.

The installer is human like the rest of us and is simply missing something when he checks things out, and will probably kick himself when the error is found.

Tim
 
Hi TheBaker,

That is an interesting point and makes sense. I tried increasing parameter 8 but unfortunately it made no difference.
 
Parameter 8 is the pump purge after a heating demand has ceased.

It wouldn't make any difference to this problem because a) your pump isn't wired to the boiler and b) the boiler is cycling whilst there is still a call for heat.


Happy to be corrected in both points though.
 
The boiler hasn't been commissioned Dan, the parameters need to be set etc. At the moment the boiler don't know what it's supposed to do or why.
 
P 8 cant but P 1 & 2 can if, which I doubt it is wired correctly
 
Just out of interest, if any of you forum members who have experience with Intergas were to install this boiler, what values would you set on the parameters menu, and expect to work when installing and commissioning this boiler on the following system, assuming it is all wired and plumbed in correctly?

These are the details of my system:


Conventional Open Vented system.

F and E tank in loft.

9 standard panel radiators.

Y plan

3 port mid position Honeywell valve.

Grundfos UPS2 3 speed pump 15-50/60.

Hot water cylinder in cupboard in bathroom.



Is it common to have to alter and modify the factory settings on an install such as this, and what mode should it actually be running on, CH only or CH + DHW tank. ? Are the boilers supposed to work out of the box with factory settings, or do they always have to be individually set-up using the parameters?
 
Only factory settings changed regularly is P3 and the running temperature.

They should otherwise be fine out of the box, and even changing P3 isn't mandatory.


Where are the components (boiler, pump, valve and cylinder) in relation to one another?


Set the pump to the fastest speed.


Does the valve port B point towards the hot water cylinder?
 
Hi Dan.

The boiler is in a kitchen extension, on the corner where the side and rear wall meet. the two pipes rise up to almost ceiling height, go through the back wall and into the downstairs bathroom which is behind.

There is a box in the top right corner of the bathroom where all the pipes connect, in there is the pump and 3 port valve.

So the pump is higher than the boiler, the pipe on left side of pump has a 90 degree elbow which connects to 3 port valve directly above, which is a little higher than the pump.

The hot water pipe of the 3 port valve exits left, with a 90 degree elbow, the pipe then runs vertically through ceiling to upstairs bathroom, comes out under bathtub and along boxed section along bottom of wall and into the cupboard containing hot water tank.

This is the way it has been for the past 25 years, running on a Potterton Netaheat Profile 60e. There were never any problems with it during this time.

I have run the pump on 3 most of the times, tried it on 2 and 1 too, but didn'nt make a difference.


I will take some pics later tonight and post them.
 

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