Quick check - any problems with this circuit

[DrEvil]

I have a socket coming from my fuseboard which has a single double socket on it so it's a radial. (BTW it used to be a ring and I asked some questions on here previously but I didn't realise when the sparky came to do my new kitchen ring that he left this as a radial not a ring) . My fridge and a radio are normally plugged into this.

I recently had a boiler change and now due to the new location of the boiler this is being plugged into it on a 3A plug.

I need to add some outside lights, so could I adjust this circuit to be

Consumer board 20A breaker ------- single 2.5mm ------double socket (fridge and radio)------2.5mm-----blank plated 3A box to which boiler will be wired into--------2.5mm ------ RCD 3A box to which outside lights hituf cable will be wired directly into.

Please let me know if I'm missing anything (just find it's better to double check)!!!

 

[Taylortwocities]

Is there an RCD protecting this circuit? There should be.
Post a pic of your consumer uit if you are not sure.
If there isn't one you will need to replace the existing 20A MCB with a 20A RCBO.

You won't need an RCD on the lights.

I don't understand

blank plated 3A box to which boiler will be wired into

In your post you said the boiler would have a plug with a 3amp fuse?. If that is the case then provide a 13A single socket. It is more usual to have an FCU with a 3A fuse and the boiler would be wired into the load side of the FCU.

 

[ericmark]

You are permitted as many sockets as you like with both radial and ring mains it is only the spur that is limited to one device.

The idea is the fuse/mcb in the fuse/consumer unit limits to output to a safe limit for cable and if you go over the limit the fuse/mcb will open failing safe.

Most you list is within the 3A bracket so you could have 7 items running together with max output without a problem and likely a lot more as although ratted 3A very few items run on the limit.

The fact you say fridge makes me think kitchen which means you will need to register work with the LABC before you start. It would be likely cheaper not to DIY will the silly rates the LABC charge as they start at £100+. Also new circuits will need RCD protection in the main and to comply may be a problem if not already RCD protected.

Part P I know does seem silly. Remove all work tops so no food preparation area fit all the sockets you like then replace all food preparation areas and it would seem you can comply without informing the LABC. However I would not like to argue the fact in a court of law. It does seem however only sub-standard work ever goes to court although we don't know if any council had ordered people to remove stuff without a court case. But to do the job correct it must be tested and even the cheapest tester costs around £60 and it does not give any readings (LED Pass, on edge and fail) so not sure if they really comply, hiring would be better option still around same price. So unless you have access to a test set the best option seems not to DIY.

 

[DrEvil]

Actually due to having a small kitchen, the fridge lives in the breakfast room.

The kitchen has it's own ring on RCD and own dedicated cooker supply.

So I think my change should count as additions to an existing non-kitchen/bathroom related work and hoping it falls outside Part P.

??

 

[DrEvil]

Is there an RCD protecting this circuit? There should be.
Post a pic of your consumer uit if you are not sure.
If there isn't one you will need to replace the existing 20A MCB with a 20A RCBO.

You won't need an RCD on the lights.

I don't understand

blank plated 3A box to which boiler will be wired into

In your post you said the boiler would have a plug with a 3amp fuse?. If that is the case then provide a 13A single socket. It is more usual to have an FCU with a 3A fuse and the boiler would be wired into the load side of the FCU.

I have an older main consumer box which is MCBs, but not RCBO.

That's why I was going to run an RCD (http://www.screwfix.com/prods/83049/Electrical-Supplies/RCDs/Volex-13A-RCD-FCU) for the outside lights.

The boiler is currently on a plug with a 3A fuse as a temporary solition, but I was thinking it might be neater to have it directly wired into FCU as you mentioned (my poor terminology called it a blank plated switch)

 

[Taylortwocities]

OK, but socket outlets and any wiring concealed in walls (less than 50mm) need to be RCD protected.

If you have MCBs then you may be able to provide an RCBO in place. Alternatively install a 30mA RCD at the beginning of this circuit (ie next to the consumer unit).

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Actually due to having a small kitchen, the fridge lives in the breakfast room.

But where is the boiler?

So I think my change should count as additions to an existing non-kitchen/bathroom related work and hoping it falls outside Part P.

Part P applies to any work whatsoever on fixed electrical cables or fixed electrical equipment located on the consumer’s side of the electricity supply meter which operate at low or extra-low voltage and are—
(a) in or attached to a dwelling;
(b) in the common parts of a building serving one or more dwellings, but excluding power supplies to lifts;
(c) in a building that receives its electricity from a source located within or shared with a dwelling; or
(d) in a garden or in or on land associated with a building where the electricity is from a source located within or shared with a dwelling.

 

[DrEvil]

But where is the boiler?

Breakfast room as well