Re-plumbing my pipework for basin

[markyyyyyy]

Hi all,

I noticed a bit of damp on my kitchen ceiling, and I've discovered (after wripping up the plywood and tiles in the bathroom) a bit of a leak in amongst the pipework supplying my basin. The bottom line is that most of it looks knackered and replacing - it looks to be coming from the joints.

To start off with, we're installing a new full pedestal basin... after all pipework if in good order.

I've never done any pipework related plumbing before, however i am pretty competent in most DIY, so i am going to give it a go.

Am i right in saying that if i turn off the stop cock under the sink, and turn on all taps in the house, the water will be fully drained from the pipes, so i can get to work on cutting? Do i need to turn my boiler off?

My question is, as i am going to replace the whole lot of pipework (that can be seen in the pictures below) should i make the cuts furthest away from the joints, or as close as i can?
I am going to pretty much copy the plumbing that has already been done - but using new pipe and fitting (unless anyone can suggest an alternative, as there seems to be a lot of pipework going on).

Secondly, do most people still use the soldering method, or can i just use push fit connectors for all of the joints? There are a few T joints, a few 90 degree corners, and a couple of straight fit connectors. If so, i'll need to get hold of a soldering torch and solder etc.

Also, there are two pipes that have a curve in (see pics) - how do i get the curve in the pipe? do i simply heat it and bend it?

Any related advice is appreciated.

Please see the pics for an understanding of whats going on.

General view of all pipework:

Dodgy pipework: - with sponges to stop pipes touching?

The two supply pipes on left provide HOT water. The two on right are COLD water.

One of the culprits for the leak

many thanks

Mark

 

[Newboy]

1) Are you sure that the leak is coming from the supply pipework? - it's more likely to be coming from either tap connectors, taps or waste pipes/traps.
2) I can't see any benefit in ripping out the pipework to simply replace it.
3) If you've never soldered a copper joint then, with respect, sorting that lot out isn't the best place to start. Some of those fittings will be a real pig to replace, especially between the joist and the wall.
4) You don't have two pipes each hot and cold, you have feeds coming up from the floor and teeing off back under the floor to supply another sanitary fitting.
5) You can solder or use pushfit but you need to have an understanding of how each product works and how to install.
6) There is no need to drain down you entire system - local isolation at the cold water cistern and hot water cylinder should exist or, if you have a combi boiler then isolating the incoming cold main supply will do the trick. There will usually be some water still within the pipework no matter how you isolate.
7) The "curves" in the pipework have been pulled using a pipe bender - heating and bending will result in a hot flat pipe!
8) If you're going to cut existing pipework then cut as far away from existing fittings as you can - giving you more pipe to work with.

With respect, I think that you're underestimating the skills and tools that you're going to have to acquire rather quickly!

http://www.screwfix.com/p/rothenberger-super-fire-2-brazing-torch/68635
http://www.screwfix.com/p/rothenberger-automatic-tube-cutter-15mm/36198
http://www.screwfix.com/p/irwin-hilmor-glm-pipe-bender/63880
http://www.screwfix.com/p/fernox-solder-wire-lead-free/77198
http://www.screwfix.com/p/fernox-powerflow-flux-paste-100g/16396
http://www.screwfix.com/c/heating-plumbing/pipe-fittings/cat831504#category=cat831560
http://www.screwfix.com/p/rothenberger-plumber-s-soldering-mat/54910
http://www.screwfix.com/p/firechief-carbon-dioxide-fire-extinguisher-2kg/56985

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Copper has the advantage of being very malleable, it can be shaped cold, although the correct support is needed to prevent crushing. Pipe springs are available to support the pipe internally, but personally I've always found them next to useless and a tube bender always gives far superior results.

You will never solder a joint if water remains in the pipe, compression or a push fit joint is then needed if you are unable to drain the pipe totally.

If using push fit fittings, you must cut using a tube cutter, a hacksaw will leave a rough edge which in turn will compromise the O ring in the fitting that makes the watertight seal.

It would be a good idea to get rid of that flexi waste pipe too, and redo in rigid pipework.