replacing an oil tank

[paddy1]

I currently have an odd shaped oil tank in the middle of my back garden.
I am looking to move its location and replace it with a new slimline one.
I am aware of all the building regulations with regards to where I can locate.

Could someone give me a few pointers with regards to the following questions:

Q.The length of pipe taking the oil from my tank to my boiler is not long enough. Is it better to fit new pipe of the correct length or can I extend the length of the existing pipe.

Q.Could i encounter problems with my boiler by removing the feed of oil to the boiler and reconnecting it to a new oil tank. What I am trying to say would the air bubble introduced affect my boiler or would it just flow out.

Are there any other tips you could offer that i have not considered?

Many thanks.

 

[wilhelm]

just use 10mm compression coupling , or flared if you want, and extend pipe. as long as its not by another 100ft, cos pump might have probs drawing it

pump might need bleed afterwards. not end of world.

 

[doitall]

and don't forget to use plastic sleeved pipe and tape the joint after testing[/b]

 

[kevplumb]

just use 10mm compression coupling , or flared if you want, and extend pipe. as long as its not by another 100ft, cos pump might have probs drawing it

pump might need bleed afterwards. not end of world.

type b bonny lad
its underground "or should be "

again i am saying nowt

 

[wilhelm]

mmmmmm..

anyway we do it different down here

but just for you...

 

[oilman]

just use 10mm compression coupling , or flared if you want, and extend pipe. as long as its not by another 100ft, cos pump might have probs drawing it

pump might need bleed afterwards. not end of world.

I doubt the pump would have a problem, you can run a 400kW boiler using 10mm, and I can get enough oil for a 25kW boiler through a 6mm pipe 40 metres long (I did it just to prove the point). It's better not to put joints in the pipe unless they are above ground, ('cos joints leak), and the compression fittinga are unreliable when used with soft annealed pipe.

There won't be an airlock problem, because you will flush the pipe through before you connect the flexi to the pump, won't you? Unless you want to fork out for a new pump because there was dirt in the pipe.

 

[wilhelm]

400kw? are you saying a bfp21 will do that?

 

[kevplumb]

look bown will
that is a hole in your foot

 

[wilhelm]

so what were saying is...that a certain pump can pull oil from an infinite distance..err infinitely.

well thats good to know

 

[oilman]

400kw? are you saying a bfp21 will do that?................so what were saying is...that a certain pump can pull oil from an infinite distance..err infinitely.

Um...please name the person who first mentioned a BFP21 in this thread, and I presume you must have "had a few" by 8:49pm. Either that, or we will soon hear on the news about the spectacular demise of some old dear's Aga.

 

[wilhelm]

im assuming the guy has got a domestic boiler

2metre head, 10mm pipe, some manufacturers says 60metres max allowable pipe run. single pipe.

err thats with a bfp41 pump......this time.

ah yes aga, dont worry, i shall be leaving a complimentary fire extinguisher behind after each service.

 

[oilman]

2metre head, 10mm pipe, some manufacturers says 60metres max allowable pipe run. single pipe.

Maybe they do, but when you look at the pipe sizes for top outlet tanks with perhaps two pipe systems, the pipe size goes down remarkably for C2 fuel. If you can get enough fuel along 6mm pipe for one configuration, you can do it for another configuration, provided the vacuum doesn't get too high, which it wont. I don't know where these manufacturers get their figures, but I suspect they are for D fuel and having to cope with cold in the winter.

It's al very well manufacturers saying whatever they do, but other maufacturers using the same burner say something else, so one or both are talking rubbish.

 

[paddy1]

Someone mentioned to make sure i bleed my pump once i have connected the new oil tank.
How do i do this? does the pump have a bleed valve and if so do i just open it until all the air is out?

One other question. Currently on my existing tank there is a stop valve at the exit hole of the tank which has what looks like a valve of some sort attached to the connecting pipe feeding the oil to the boiler. What is this valve thing - is it by chance an oil filter?

 

[oilman]

Someone mentioned to make sure i bleed my pump once i have connected the new oil tank.

First flush ol pipe, then bleed pump. If the tank is high enough, and it's a Danfoss pump you can open the bleed valve until oil drips out. If you open it and turn the boiler on, it will spray oil nicely.

One other question. Currently on my existing tank there is a stop valve at the exit hole of the tank which has what looks like a valve of some sort attached to the connecting pipe feeding the oil to the boiler. What is this valve thing - is it by chance an oil filter?

With a description like that it could be quite a few things, what about a photo?

 

[wilhelm]

oilman, you do what you want. i follow the mi's , taking into account statutary regs (of course.. ) that way when a warranty issue comes up.....




i like the bit about manufacturers talking rubbish......you make boilers?

i look forward to another of your withering replies.