Hi All
I know the answers will be "no" but I was theorising the following:
Install a direct, vented stainless steel grade 1 (2.5 bar max) hot water cylinder and connect it directly to the incoming main via a PRV.
Run the insulated vent pipe to a height of about 6m above the the cylinder, so it vents into the gutter of the two storey dwelling (I'm on the ground floor).
Adjust the PRV so that water just starts to emit from the vent pipe and turn back so that the head in the vent pipe is about 5m, equivalent to about 0.5bar.
In this way I dont need a header tank, any heat expansion is catered for via the vent pipe and I get a decent pressure on the hot water.
Any increase in incoming pressure is catered for by the PRV, or as a fail safe pushed out via the vent pipe.
I'm in the Thames water area and the maximum pressure is no more than 2 bar.
Looking forward to the replies.
Mick54
I know the answers will be "no" but I was theorising the following:
Install a direct, vented stainless steel grade 1 (2.5 bar max) hot water cylinder and connect it directly to the incoming main via a PRV.
Run the insulated vent pipe to a height of about 6m above the the cylinder, so it vents into the gutter of the two storey dwelling (I'm on the ground floor).
Adjust the PRV so that water just starts to emit from the vent pipe and turn back so that the head in the vent pipe is about 5m, equivalent to about 0.5bar.
In this way I dont need a header tank, any heat expansion is catered for via the vent pipe and I get a decent pressure on the hot water.
Any increase in incoming pressure is catered for by the PRV, or as a fail safe pushed out via the vent pipe.
I'm in the Thames water area and the maximum pressure is no more than 2 bar.
Looking forward to the replies.
Mick54