The same but different worktops

[Bobbya82]

Am currently installing my kitchen and need to cut a couple of mitred corner joints(Not butt and scribe). The problem I have is that the pattens on the oak effect worktop do not match up. It is like the finish has not been pulled round the worktop enough the line do not marry up, they are obviously not the same length of worktop but they were broght together so surely you would expect the patterns to line up?
They were brought from Wickes, do you think I have a case for a new worktop and has anyone ever had this problem?

Hope this makes sense, please let me know if not and need more detail.

Thanks.

 

[Bobbya82]

Anyone got any coments? Please

 

[Scrit]

I'm having difficulty seeing what you mean. Do your worktops have a "plank effect" pattern printed in the laminate?

Scrit

 

[Bobbya82]

Yes, its oak effect, just looks like they wrap it round like a piece of paper.
But the two lenghts to not marry up.

Its simular to the below. Imagine you put two of the tops together and the pattern did not line up. Thats the problem I have.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/WICKES-WALNUT...ryZ57231QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting

 

[Bobbya82]

Guys any thoughts?, going to try my luck later to get a new top but just wanted to see if anyone else has had a similar problem.

Ta.

 

[Scrit]

One thing I can say about this is that when I've done kitchen worktops with a planked effect laminate I've always used a mason's mitre jig and I've yet to have a customer complain about it. To me it looks better (i.e. visually less disturbing) than a full width mitre joint. Even doing solid wood worktops I either butt joint or butt joint with a small mitre at the outer edge (if the worktop edge is profiled). As you say the difficulty is getting the planks to line-up, and to be honest I don't think that they're meant to. Lining-up won't be helped by the fact that the corner you're working into is probably not absolutely square. The only real advice I can give is to try marking out your joins from the rear as the flat edge will be easier to work from accurately. Other than that I'm afraid I can't add anything.

Scrit

 

[Bobbya82]

Scrit,

Thanks, but I have tried taking two straight off cuts from the two lengths and literally just butting them together and the lines dont line up??

this is not right surley??

Thanks

 

[Scrit]

It doesn't sound right, which is why I'd go for a mason's mitre - that's more likely to look acceptable.

Scrit

 

[Bobbya82]

Yeah thats what I have done, £20 on the router bit and it only lasts a few cuts.

If i want to butt these two worktops together to make it longer than a standard length it looks stupid. I am in contact with Wickes at the moment, but so far they have come out with some spill that if it meets their quality control then there is nothing they can do!!

 

[hermes]

If i want to butt these two worktops together to make it longer than a standard length !!

In your earlier post you said you were doing mitred corners?

 

[Scrit]

If i want to butt these two worktops together to make it longer than a standard length !!

In your earlier post you said you were doing mitred corners?

If at all possible I'd try to avoif end joining worktops. I reckon that they never, ever look right. NBut that's just a personal opinion

Scrit