What's causing the damp in these photos?

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Two years ago after my mum died, I decided to hang on to her bungalow for my possible future retirement accommodation. Meanwhile I rented it out. Last year, the tenants reported a problem with damp behind a drawer unit in the bedroom.

Some of the neighbours reported that they had similar problems which they had resolved by fitting a air vent, so I arranged for this to be done. Through the summer all was well, but as soon as the cold weather arrived, more damp appeared, this time on the bedroom ceiling.

There was never a problem whilst my parents lived there from when the bungalow was built in 1980 until 2016. The tenants have been in touch and have asked me to do something about it. But I don't know what needs to be done, I don't think there is a building issue, or is there? can anyone offer advice please? The new air vent is visible in the photos.

Damp 1.jpg Damp 2.jpg Damp 3.jpg Damp 4.jpg
 
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I get similar damp below the eaves in 2 rooms. I suspect there's very little insulation above those parts, creating cold spots. So maybe lots of insulation in the loft, and some anti-mould paint might be enough to fix...

of course, the real cause of the damp could be not using extractor fans, leaving clothes to dry on rads or heated clothes rails etc.
 
Make sure there's at least a thin layer of insulation right at the edges. Probably the cold draughts in the loft on the plasterboard causing it.
Lots of insulation isn't important, just at least some everywhere. Consistency is more important than maximum quantity.
Also the usual about tents opening windows to ventilate, use cooker fan and bathroom fan, don't dry clothes in unvented rooms, keep everywhere heated properly on winter
 
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Thanks guys that is pretty much what I thought. I wondered about the insulation. The walls are cavity insulated and the ceiling does have the insulation that was fitted in the 1980's when the property was built, and if I had to guess say that it looks to be somewhere around 6 inches. I thought about adding some additional insulation, but didn't because 1) The insulation has been there since 1980 and the problem hasn't occurred before, which I would have expected if inadequate and 2) the extra height would stop the airflow in the eves, which I understand should be avoided.
 
As I say don't add more height overall just make sure it's moremore ev spread. 2 inches everywhere is much safer than 12 inches mostly but none for the last 6 inches at the eaves. Look up thermal bridging for more info.
However as you rightly say the inside loft ventilation needs maintained.
 
would it be worth putting some insulation board on top of the ceiling board right into the eaves?
 
Typical scenario where the tenants don't bother opening the windows, because that'll lose all their valuable heat. This causes excess moisture in the property, and it has to condense out somewhere. The back of wardrobes and cupboards are all examples of the problem, but not always immediately visible, but the ceiling only having 150mm, then become the next areas. You should have 270mm no to comply with regs, and whilst you should be fine, as of this June, you can no longer rent out a property that has less than an EPC rating of E, so Fs, and Gs need upgrading, but the tenancy can roll over to a periodic tenancy, you just can't issue a new one. When you do issue a new one, put in a condition that the property must be kept well ventilated, and if mould occurs as a result of lack of ventilation, the the tenant is responsible for all redecoration. Make sure they read the clause, and then initial it.
 
Buy them a digital humidity meter or two (cheap on ebay) and tell them that it should be below 50% ideally, and if it's regularly higher they need to open windows more, leave extractors on for longer, etc.
 
Reality check endecotp; these type of people will see the reading above 50%, and ignore it. I had some neighbours that shut all their windows, and wouldn't open them, even when the gas fire went out due to lack of oxygen; they were just convinced that the fire must be faulty.
 
It's possible they will ignore it, but maybe not - and the meters are so cheap I think it's worth trying.

I speak as a 40-something who was stuck in rented houses in expensive cities for too many years; I only managed to buy a few years ago due to (financial) luck. So your characterisation of "these type of people" is a bit grating; it could have been me in their position. My last rented house had essentially no insulation anywhere and no extractors, and a central heating system where all the valves were seized open. I complained; the owner did nothing.
 
Sorry if you thought that my post referred to you, but as a landlord, I've come across many of this type of tenant, and they have a mindset that is just impossible to deal with. And I've had perfectly good tenants, so I'm not referring to people who rent, but those who seem to have a sense of entitlement, and just know they are right, and no matter how much evidence you show them, they'll ignore it to the day they die.
 
Argh yes, the classic "lifestyle" answer to the tenants.

But if a defect in the building - such as missing loft insulation, or blocked eaves, is causing a cold spot for air to condense on, then that's the landlords responsibility.

And there are other potential reasons for the landlord to be required to deal with condensation issues, but in the OP's case then it looks like a loft insulation issue.
 
Except his parents lived there from 1980 to 2016 with no problems, so indicative of the change in tenants, rather than the building.
 
I think what we've established is there are two sides to the situation in general, and both sides should be addressed where economical.
 

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