whirlpool 6th sense washing machine motor burnout?

[mikehammer69]

You need to first pull off the blue cam wheel and the white soap dispenser lever thingy then it should be self evident. If I remember correctly, you have to push a plastic tag inward then the timer is slid sideways to disengage it from the metal plate.

i've uploaded a couple of pics to above album showing damage to control unit

i'm reasonably sure wash motor is ok

 

[fidom]

There is one firm that might repair that damage but I'm not sure:

http://www.qer.biz/servReps.htm

 

[mikehammer69]

what do you think the chances are that another wm component caused the damage to control unit?

i'll prob be giving everything the once over anyhow


is it easy to run that wash motor off a 3-core lead to check it's working ok??

 

[fidom]

It is possible to connect mains directly to the motor but you have to identify the wires correctly or you will damage it. You need to find out which tags on the motor plug go to the brushes and which go to the field coil. Connect a wire link between one field coil wire and one brush wire. Connect the live and neutral to the remaining brush and field coil wires (either way) and the earth to the casing. Some motors have a centre tapped field coil in which case you can identify the correct wires using a multimeter set on a low ohms range. The 2 ends of the field coil (i.e. the wires you want) will give a slightly higher resistance than you get between the centre tap wire and one end.
Obviously the machine will go straight to maximum spin, so don't have any water in the drum for this test.

 

[mikehammer69]

thanks
what are the chances that replacing the unit will fix machine ?

i prob will check heating element,drain and wash motor

 

[fidom]

I don't know. The problem is that with certain new parts like timers and circuit boards you usually only get a guarantee if the manufacturers technician does the repair. If QER can repair the board they will most likely know what caused it to blow and will tell you to check the motor, door switch or whatever. The spare parts for Whirlpool are more expensive than most other makes so a lot of fairly new machines get scrapped when they go wrong.

 

[mikehammer69]

thanks
i've managed to repair it myself so far on the cheap
it's a bit trickier this time

i know an ex whirlpool guy-he had a bunch of these units thrown in a bin
i might show it to him see what he thinks

 

[fidom]

If you had access to a similar board, even a faulty one, it would be possible to identify the parts that are burnt and solder in new ones. On yours the markings will have burnt off. I may well have a board in my shed in Scotland but that's no help as I'm in Hungary just now!

 

[mikehammer69]

i might try that as well when i call to him
thanks again for all the help

if not i may contact the online repair company

 

[mikehammer69]

If you had access to a similar board, even a faulty one, it would be possible to identify the parts that are burnt and solder in new ones. On yours the markings will have burnt off. I may well have a board in my shed in Scotland but that's no help as I'm in Hungary just now!

//www.diynot.com/network/mikehammer69/albums/16154


the damage is in the area where the door switch (3-pin) and motor(7-pin)
connect to timer board

i'm not sure whether the board is the only problem or how to test the door interlock switch?

the motor seems fine but i can prob test it using your instructions

 

[fidom]

The only sure way to test the door switch is by trying a new one but you can bypass it if you can determine which wire is neutral. The 3 wires are:

Live
Switched live
neutral

To bypass the switch you join the live and switched live wires together. Often the neutral wire is thinner than the other two. In some machines the switch develops a short circuit and damages the board. In such cases I repair the board then try it with a new door switch.

 

[mikehammer69]

The only sure way to test the door switch is by trying a new one but you can bypass it if you can determine which wire is neutral. The 3 wires are:

Live
Switched live
neutral

To bypass the switch you join the live and switched live wires together. Often the neutral wire is thinner than the other two. In some machines the switch develops a short circuit and damages the board. In such cases I repair the board then try it with a new door switch.

great thanks

 

[mikehammer69]

hi

i've fitted a replacement timer

i inadvertently turned the dial on the timer before refitting the cams back in their original postion

is there a procedure for syncing the cams back with the timer itself or does it matter if there's been an adjustment made on the timer

if you understand me

i'm transferring parts from a salvaged machine

identical,door switch timer,solenoids,wiring loom

unfortunately the drain pump and wash motor are different

i can prob test the existing drain pump


but i'm concerned about the motor and possible short-circuits

is there any way to test for shorts apart from running the motor?


thanks

 

[fidom]

The timer knob and cam parts should only fit on one way so they should be correct if they went on OK. You can check the motor by wiring it to the mains as I described before or doing megger insulation tests between the brush wires and field coil wires and the motor casing. I would not risk the megger on the tacho coil but you can do a normal insulation resistance on it with the multimeter. You can also compare tacho resistance between the 2 motors.

 

[mikehammer69]

ok thanks fidom

il do some tests and comparisons on the motors

they're 7-pin
would that indicate split field coil?

i'm reading tacho 131 ohm,armature 4 ohm and field coil 1.3 ohm

IR for field and armature ok

i may not test motor as i figure it's one throw of the dice for me anyhow