There ya go.The 2metre unterminated one seems to be the only one 13 amp rated
There ya go.The 2metre unterminated one seems to be the only one 13 amp rated
I don't believe that I am.You're all missing the point.
I agree totally, and have not suggested otherwise. I merely agreed with rocky (and you) about the intuitive view.Yes - it does intuitively seem that a C13/14 or C15/16 pair could cope with 13A, but intuition (rightly, IMO) is not what standards are based on.
I feel sure that no Standard would say quite that! It might well say it is 'rated' for a maximum of 10A and/or that it should not be used to carry a current of more than 10A, but it would be daft for a Standard to 'require' that it was "only capable" of carrying 10A. However, I presume we are agreed that it should not be used to carry a current greater than 10A, because (for whatever reason) it is not required (by the Standard) to be able to cope with more than that.And the standard requires that it only be capable of carrying 10A.
As above, totally agreed.But what there must be is a requirement for them to not be used for a load which in normal operation is more than 10A, hence the rating given by the makers. ...
Quite apart from the fact that, as I have said, I am unaware of any actual 'requirement' to provide connectors (or anything else, other than cables) with over-current protection, I'm not sure how one would work out exactly how to achieve it - so I'm not sure that the figures you suggest are necessarily correct.What seems common is to state the fuse protects the cable. As to the connector on the end of that cable to me they should also be protected by the fuse. ... So a 2.5A connector even if moulded onto a 1.25mm² cable should still have a 2A fuse not a 13A fuse even though a 13A fuse would protect the cable.
Yes, it does - twice.I don't know why 0.5mm² cable is listed (3A) as Table 52.3 lists nothing under 0.75mm²?
If you measured the resistance of the neutral conductor, you would avoid that (fuse) problem. Whether your meter would be able to measure the resistance of a metre or two of conductor accurately enough to enable you to distinguish confidently between, say 1.0, 1.25 and 1.5 mm² might be a different matter.To me the problem is a moulded plug and connector where there is no writing on the cable to show it's size. This is common with cables designed for computers the 13A plug with two 10A connectors is a common problem since there is resistance in the fuse it is impossible to test to find the cross sectional area of the cable inside without first measuring length and resistance of the fuse.
Yes.What seems common is to state the fuse protects the cable.
Yes.As to the connector on the end of that cable to me they should also be protected by the fuse.
Would a 13A fuse not protect it from faults?So a 2.5A connector even if moulded onto a 1.25mm² cable should still have a 2A fuse not a 13A fuse even though a 13A fuse would protect the cable.
Why? Would a 13A fuse not protect the cable from faults?The same other way around a 10A connector on a 0.75mm² cable the fuse should be still 6A.
Because it is made and because some appliances use it?I don't know why 0.5mm² cable is listed (3A) as Table 52.3 lists nothing under 0.75mm²?
OK maybe china still supplies 0.5mm² but it is not worth going into non compliant items.
So measure the resistance of the N or CPC.To me the problem is a moulded plug and connector where there is no writing on the cable to show it's size. This is common with cables designed for computers the 13A plug with two 10A connectors is a common problem since there is resistance in the fuse it is impossible to test to find the cross sectional area of the cable inside without first measuring length and resistance of the fuse.
Why? How small would the cable have to be for it not to be adequately protected from faults by a 13A fuse? Or a 10A, if you insist?So if no cable size is printed on the cable then I suppose we should fit a 3A fuse.
I'm sure if you look under the base you'll find something which tells you what the load of the kettle is, and therefore will inform you of the wisdom of using a fuse <13A. Mine draws 12A at U0, so I'd be pretty foolish to not use a 13A fuse. And although mine was made in China it was for a reputable European maker, and bought from a reputable UK High St retailer, so short of cutting the plug off to measure the conductor size I've done all that I can to ensure that the cable is at least 1.25mm²My kettle is what is called cordless and there is no cable size shown however I would always fit a 13A fuse even though really I have no idea of the cable size.
Although not the best of images, it is, indeed, clearly marked "13A" but I can't confidently read all of the BS number.....The old
connector I can find no info as to rating. Although described as "Universal 13 Amp Round Pin Kettle Plug Element Connector & Cable Grommet".
It's about 6mΩ/m difference between 1.0 & 1.5, so presumably about half that between 0.75 and 1.0, which is where the "OK for a 10A load" inflection point is, so yes, you'd need an accurate meter, a guarantee of clean connections, and without a reference cable to compare, an accurate thermometer too. Probably be just as accurate to measure the OD.Whether your meter would be able to measure the resistance of a metre or two of conductor accurately enough to enable you to distinguish confidently between, say 1.0, 1.25 and 1.5 mm² might be a different matter.
Exactly.It's about 6mΩ/m difference between 1.0 & 1.5, so presumably about half that between 0.75 and 1.0, which is where the "OK for a 10A load" inflection point is, so yes, you'd need an accurate meter, a guarantee of clean connections, and without a reference cable to compare, an accurate thermometer too. Probably be just as accurate to measure the OD.Whether your meter would be able to measure the resistance of a metre or two of conductor accurately enough to enable you to distinguish confidently between, say 1.0, 1.25 and 1.5 mm² might be a different matter.
... and I suspect that this one might well make it 76 pages...
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