Can I danish oil a veneered oak door?

[Glenbirnie]

I have had a few new doors fitted. LPD nostalgia oak 6 panel. There are an oak veneer door. I want to danish oil them and my joiner has said this is fine. I have heard others though go 'oooo no no you cant oil a veneered door the oil will disolve the glue and lift the veneer'

Any opinions on this or better still anyone actually done it and got good or bad news?

Thanks

 

[dcdec]

Oils deeply penetrate but i don't know if it would dissolve the glue, it depends what type of glue they use (epoxy resin?) i guess, but i suppose technically there is a chance.
A stain only penetrates to just below the surface, so could be an option

My first choice would be a WB wood dye, but others could well know better as its voyaging into the unknown a little. I always try and test on offcuts with this type of thing, but i guess you cant do that. Why do you want to oil/stain/dye them anyway? They look like really nice doors, are you trying to match existing decor or something?

 

[TheDec]

You really need to contact the manufacturer, some veneers will accept oils yet some won't.

Dec

 

[oldgreymouse]

daddad, what sort of finish are you looking to get on your doors.
Oil is usual for solid wood. teak and iroko in outside conditions like sun and rain etc, not really on thin veneer used indoors.
Veneer was used for fantastic grain effects and then french polished to a high shine.

sikkens have a big range of wood finishes and I would of thought you could find something to fit the bill for internal doors.

Oil finish is ok but generally quite difficult to put on accurately and by that I mean that the oil coating can be sucked in well on some parts of the wood grain and not on others, as a veneer you might end up getting a patchy looking door.

Consider using a spirit 'matt' varnish, maybe 2 coats then rubbed down with a 240 grit grey paper. Try a sample piece to see what you think, bottom rail of the door perhaps.

 

[TheDec]

I agree oils can tend to be problematic, yet the main problem here is we don't know what adhesive was used or indeed and often more important what type of veneer we are dealing with.

I don't doubt that sikkens will have a suitable product, but always I think when dealing with veneers, it is always better to check with the manufacturer prior to the application of any product. And if they offer the ok regarding the application of oil then fiddes exterior high build wood oil would be my choice.

Cheers,

Dec

 

[Glenbirnie]

Im just looking for a natural finish I supposse. Ive allways used oils on timber I like the natural idea of it, that may not be true though with the spirits in it.

Surprised you suggest it is difficult to apply, Ive done many worktops bits of furniture and solid doors in the past and find it very easy to apply with good results.

I shy away from stain as I find it hard to work.

I have used Sikkens recently on some Merranti french doors out to the garden, did them green looks very good and that I must admit was ok to put on.

The reason for the oil is the house has some pitch pine finishings on show (some painted, i could cry!) Ive allways used Ronseal Refined Danish oil which you get in different shades. Its really really good stuff I think its maybe for furniture really. Id did some solid pine doors at my last house with a dark jacobean finish and they looked unreal.

Ive used Meranti finishings in a new pantry and kitchen and used the medium georgian oak finish it matches the other pitch pine very well and looks genuinly like it could have been in place for a 100 years which you may find surprising with Meranti, selected the grained pieces though which has helped.

So Ive used this stuff a lot just never on a veneeered door. The veneer is supposed to be 5mm thick and I dont think it will penetreate this depth just wanted to see if anyone had actually done it.

Thanks for your comments

 

[TheDec]

My advice regarding oils being problematic was directed to the veneer, there are very many differing forms of wood veneer and it is important to establish what we are dealing with before the correct advice can be given.

Dec

 

[Glenbirnie]

Thanks for the clarification TheDec.

Ive no idea other than its suppossed to be a 5mm oak, it feels almost lightly hairy like maeranti can. Ive no odea what different veneer specs are. You may be able to advise. I can call LPD and see what they say but they are suppliers and probably dont make the door. The veneer wont be the best quality oak in the world I wouldnt think.

Can you advise the questions I need to ask so I can maybe get more detailed advise on here?

Cheers

 

[TheDec]

All you need to establish is whether the veneer and adhesive can withstand the application of oils, given the thickness of it my guess would be yes, but always wise to ask first. Give them a ring!

Dec

 

[oldgreymouse]

Hi again, the reason i said oil can be difficult to apply is that oil being quite a natural refined product is drawn into solid wood quite easily until it is dispersed through the grain.
The problem is what is under the veneer and I have found that sometimes try as you might, parts of the door seem to refuse the coating properly and I have put this down to something being under the veneer that does not want to soak the oil up. Best of luck though as it is a nice finish.

As Thedec say's, a quick check with the manufacturer might help.

 

[Glenbirnie]

Thanks gents

 

[TheDec]

The nature of how oils are both absorbed and drawn into timber are cut/and grain dependant, the cure here is by applying sufficient coats in order to provide a uniform finish. Veneers however are a completely different ball game.

Dec

 

[ic1927]

If you do decide to go with the Danish oil remember to dispose of any rags used with the oil carefully, they have been known to burst into flames.

 

[TheDec]

Spot on ic1927, spontaneous combustion can and indeed does occur, well spotted.

Dec

 

[HJC1972]

I concurr with the statements already made about disposal of oil impregnated rags. It is rare but I have seen it happen.

With regards to oiling veneered substrate, I am an antique furniture restorer and french polisher by trade and over the past twenty years I've oiled hundreds of tables; some veneered, some solid. I've oiled on top of PVA, Cascamite and Scotch glue and never once have I had a problem with delamination. Many manufacturers - G-plan, Nathan, Mackintosh etc. all used to oil, and indeed recomend continuous oiling of their furniture.

I think you'd be very unlucky to have any problems but as previously mentioned probably best to still ask the manufacturers advice.