Seeing as how you all like pictures so much

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EDIT - please don't be put off by the
02swafittinglg9.th.jpg
s - the links work, it's just the thumbnails that ImageShack have managed to lose.... :rolleyes:



Comment/questions/suggestions...

Installing some outside lights - the cable will exit the house wall and go into an enclosure containing an RCD (house circuit is non-RCD) a couple of sockets, and B16/B6 MCBs for the sockets and the lights:

00diagramjy2.jpg


Fitting glands to trouser box:

First of two boxes being installed:

Closeup of a cable before the gland was assembled. When pushed together as the gland was tightened the armour did cover the cone:

Done. Before re-making when I found I'd not got long enough cores to get into the choc-block OK.. :evil:

Grey sleeved blue used for neutral, black sleeved G/Y for cpc.

Closeup of 2nd box:

Choc-block was a bit of a squash in #1, so I used crimps in #2. As the cores are stranded I found that twisting 2 or 3 and then crimping gave excellent results - did a few test joints and tried very hard to pull them apart - wouldn't budge. When I open up #1 I'll see if the cables look stressed - I might replace the choc-block with crimps.

Photo of the internals for the enclosure:

Top right is the RCD/MCBs in a unit with a 16A socket.

Top left is a JB with a 4-core cable to run to the photo-switch - L/N/E/Switched Live.

The incoming supply will enter the mini-CU through the gland at the bottom, the outgoing cable for the lights will exit the JB through the gland in the bottom.

The G/Y cable from the Masterseal enclosure runs from the earth block in the CU to the earth stud of the main enclosure.

13A socket:

Mini CU w. 16A socket:

The cable supplying the MCBs is continuous - I stripped a section and bent it double to go into the yellow crimp. All the crimps are spades, they fit really well under the busbar screws of the RCD/MCBs.

Closeup of the JB:

CU & JB (a bit blurred, I'm afraid):

Photoswitch on the outside of the enclosure - the closeup got a bit too much flash, unfortunately:

Armour continuity connections:

All done, ready to fix to the wall and receive incoming/outgoing SWA cables:

Nothing is yet unchangeable, so if anybody spots anything horrific, let me know.

Once I've done the dead tests I'll be filling those trouser boxes with waterproofing compound.
 
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Closeup of 2nd box:

Is that a little copper showing on the right hand neutral conductor? ;)

Not that I'm surprised when using a 6mm through crimp for three 1.5mm conductors.

Closeup of the JB:
Also the copper hanging out of the bottom of the two live terminals may want addressing.

I need to source some piranha nuts, they look spot-on.
 
Is that a little copper showing on the right hand neutral conductor? ;)
I dunno. I see what you mean in the photo - I hadn't noticed it IRL. Could be a trick of the light - I'll have a close look if it ever stops raining...

Not that I'm surprised when using a 6mm through crimp for three 1.5mm conductors.
Yeah - I had my doubts, but I figured 3 x 1.5 < 6...

I straightened out all the strands, held the cables in a trefoil, and retwisted them all, tightly, and the OD ended up OK for the crimp. I'd bared a lot more than I needed so I had plenty to work with, and then cut it to length after twisting.

Also the copper hanging out of the bottom of the two live terminals may want addressing.
Yes - I know - I'll sort that when I connect the outgoing armoured - the one on the right will have to be fiddled with anyway...

I need to source some piranha nuts, they look spot-on.
They are jolly good. The locking grubscrew can be a pain to get in in confined spaces, but other than that no probs.
 
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They are jolly good. The locking grubscrew can be a pain to get in in confined spaces, but other than that no probs.

Where did you get them? Is there a mainstream wholesaler who stocks them?

TLC stock them, but one of my local wholesalers had never heard of them and another could only get them with a minimum order
 
ban, what will you use the ceeform socket for? Also, is it allowed to have the ceeform and a standard 13A socket on the same 16A MCB?

Another thing is bugging me too. Is that outer metal box IP rated? If so, why all the IP rated stuff inside it?

Thanks for the photos anyway, looks good. What sort of lights are you fitting, and how will you terminate the SWA into them?
 
ban, what will you use the ceeform socket for?
Dunno.

I didn't think "must make sure I include a ceeform" - I happened to have that small unit, so I thought "that'll be handy for the RCD etc - the socket might come in useful one day..."

Also, is it allowed to have the ceeform and a standard 13A socket on the same 16A MCB?
Never occurred to me to check. Can't think why not, or why it might be unsafe.

Another thing is bugging me too. Is that outer metal box IP rated? If so, why all the IP rated stuff inside it?
Yes it is, and the inside stuff is all IP rated JIC I do ever want to use that socket in the rain. I had the Masterseal socket anyway to use out there, so I figured I might as well make it all OK to use in the wet.

Thanks for the photos anyway, looks good. What sort of lights are you fitting, and how will you terminate the SWA into them?



Since the cable to each light ends there I don't need to maintain continuity for the armour, so I've not glanded it - just cut back the sheath and armour once its inside (it enters from underneath) and sealed around the where it's cut with self-amalgating tape. It's IP44 in there, so that should be fine. The armour is earthed at one end, and isn't the cpc.
 
Nothing wrong , but Just wondered
What have you used there to join the rcd box to the mk socket box!
 
Two compression glands - this design type:

EK252B.JPG


I have some where the thread at both ends is the same, so 2 bodies will screw together, then at one end I've got a locknut, and at the other the normal part that screws in, but without the compression components so that it tightens right down...
 
Thought it was them ,never realised two screwed together till now though.
Only seen ones with two different thread sizes.
:cool:

One question ,if I may
Or am I missing something
Why opt for two lugs and a yellow crimp for the earth
Rather than 3 lugs, or even a yellow lug, which may have give more space in the box
 
Thought it was them ,never realised two screwed together till now though.
Only seen ones with two different thread sizes.
:cool:
Some are different, some aren't. It was only when I decided to make the interior waterproof that I thought I needed something to connect the two - can't have them adjoining like the CU/JB, as then the Masterseal socket lid fouls on the Commando one. Not enough room for 2 glands and conduit, 1 gland was still not enough so I tried 2 - just right. When I was rummaging through my collection of glands (oo-err Mr Lecter) some would stack together, some not - I don't know how many do/don't overall.

I've done a similar thing to connect the JB to the Commando enclosure - I've used the bush that normally screws into the body of a gland, and a locknut.

One question ,if I may
Or am I missing something
Why opt for two lugs and a yellow crimp for the earth
Rather than 3 lugs, or even a yellow lug, which may have give more space in the box
Good idea. Probably not worth changing now, but I can see how it came about.

Plan A, as implemented in the first trouser box (the one shown with just the glands and a flylead) was to use choc-block. When that proved to be a squash I used an alternative method to join the cables - didn't think about taking all the cpcs to the earth screw of the box... :confused:
 

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