Honeywell Valve is Clicking!

Darlajane · 2 Jun 2005

Hi,
My problem started when I installed a new digital timer rather and got rid of the old analogue one for the central heating and hot water system. After destroying the first timer by accidently wiring it up wrong, the second one works fine.

However, now the problem is with the valve (model is Honeywell V4073A) which moves a little when the timer switches on and then stops and starts clicking ever few seconds. It's like it's trying to move it but can't after a bit. It ends up that we have the central heating on when only hot water is wanted and since the valve is obviously stuck open it means the radiators get really really hot!

Does anyone have any ideas? I've opened up the motor part and fiddled with it (made it go all the way open and all the way shut manually) but it just moves back and does it's own thing once the power is on. I've sprayed it with WD40 also.

Perhaps I need a new motor as when I killed the first digital timer I may have blown something in that too!

Thanks for your help,
Helen

kevplumb · 2 Jun 2005

first check the wiring

if you need a diagram try here

Darlajane · 2 Jun 2005

Hi,
I have checked the wiring so many times (for like 2 days straight!) so I'm pretty much 95% sure it's not the wiring.
If the wiring is correct what else could be wrong?
Helen

kevplumb · 2 Jun 2005

try one of these

to be fair if you have been messing about with it

it might be worth just changing the head

Darlajane · 2 Jun 2005

thanks, I guess that is the best solution.

Where would be the cheapest place to buy one?

kevplumb · 2 Jun 2005

this might give you some idea

ChrisR · 2 Jun 2005

if it moves to and fro for the central, heating + hot water position, instead of stopping, one of the wee components in the head (a diode) has failed. So unless you're handy with a soldering iron...

Darlajane · 3 Jun 2005

It seems likely the diode would have been blown by the power surge! But even if it managed to stop where it's at it should be closed and it isn't, it's open (I think partially at least), and is stuck at this place no matter what option is selected from the timer.

I think that when the CH only is selected the HW will get heated and vice versa. If both CH and HW is selected it still has the same problem. So although when the initial power is sent to the valve it moves some distance it doesn't do anything else until power is turned off.

Do you still think it's the diode? I once owned a soldering iron and know what to do. Will it be a little diode like in a computer or a larger one? I really don't want to shell out £40 for a new motor unless I have to.

Slugbabydotcom · 3 Jun 2005

By the time you have run about; getting another soldering iron and found the part and replaced it; all assuming nothing else is wrong . You might as well just replace the head and be done with it!!!!

ChrisR · 4 Jun 2005

It would only be staying in the middle if there's a wiring fault - they spring-return to HW only.

Darlajane · 5 Jun 2005

Been away for the weekend so couldn't reply.. hope u guys are still watching this thread.

You say that it would be staying in the middle if there was a wiring fault. Do you mean a fault with the wires coming into the motor or the wires in the motor? Any idea what exactly the fault would be? As in which wires would ccause that sort of problem.

It's useful to know that when it's off it's allowing HW only, that will help me.

p.s. all this has got me interested in becoming an electrician. How do you get qualified as one?

Thanks for your help!

wilhelm · 5 Jun 2005

what programmer did you fit?

if its a st699 , there are links etc...

but maybe im teaching you to suck ..

one of these

ChrisR · 5 Jun 2005

You say that it would be staying in the middle if there was a wiring fault.

Er, no I didn't - there was an ONLY!

Unless it's jammed , which can happen.

I think someone gave the link for the honeywell Y plan circuit diag - look at that.
http://content.honeywell.com/uk/homes/Catalogue/Sundial Plans/3.4 Y Plan.pdf

Righto -- there's a white wire and a grey one.
The White wire is for heating. It will go live if CH is needed.

The grey wire is sort of "inverse logic". It goes live only if HW is NOT wanted. For that reason it gets connected to the (satisfied) connections on the programmer AND the HW thermostat. The one from the thermostat is quite often left out (mistake).

So for HW Only you want Grey Off and White Off
for CH Only you want Grey On and White On
for CH + HW you want Grey Off and White On

I think that's right - someone check it please!

Darlajane · 8 Jun 2005

Hi Guys,

Just given the motor a very up close inspection and now I've found the reason for the problem!!! After all this going on about electricity it was a mechanical fault all along!

The motor is attached to a little cog, of which one of the teeth have broken off!!!!! So it can't get past that bit, which causes the clicking. Therefore, the motor is working correctly!

Is there anyway I can replace the little cog without getting a whole new motor? Could I have caused the breakage by a power surge? or fitting a new timer?

At least it's nice to know my wires are all correct.

oilman · 9 Jun 2005

You will have to replace the motor unless you have access to a cog supply, and if the teeth are stripped, the teeth on the quadrant may be worn as well, so you might as well change the power head.

Clicking caused by brken and worn teeth is quite common, but you need to check the force needed to move the valve spindle, it should need only light force (and it doesen't move far) to rotate it. If it's stiff it might be as well to replace the whole valve.

diynot

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Honeywell Valve is Clicking!

wilhelm

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