Hot water in header tank

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5 Jan 2007
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Location
Hampshire
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United Kingdom
Just moved house and the heating system doen't work properly.When heating has been on for about 10 mins, the boiler clunks and bangs and hot water is discharged into header tank, it then sucks air into the system. It's an open system, fully pumped with 3-way valve. I have checked the pump and flushed the pipework through, all radiators get hot initially but 3 upstairs collect air very quickly. A friend who 'knows a bit' says that the cold filler pipe and the vent are in the wrong place. Can somebody tell me where the filler and vent should be, in relation to the pump, and flow and return pipes. At present the filler is on the return and the vent is just below the pump on the boiler flow. I have now way of finding out if the sysyem has ever worked properly. Any help would be appreciated.
 
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On flow pipe from boiler: Vent, Feed, Pump (pointing away from boiler) and then zone valve(s)... vent on one side and feed on the other is a recipe for DISASTER and needs changing ASAP. The system will quickly sludge up and slowly stop working. Do any of your rads get hot at the top but you find that lower sections, particularly towards the middle, are cold. If so they are already full of sludge/sediment. Either power flush or remove completely (MIND THE WHITE CARPET) and flush outside with a hose, after using system cleanser for a while to loosen the muck.... good luck
 
Thanks LeakyDave, I have had the pipework altered yesterday, and the system is clean, all rads are hot, it is a definate improvement.... the boiler isn't banging any more.
But now when i checked the header tank i can see water coming in via the vent pipe every 20 seconds or so and there is a faint 'gurgling' noise when you put your ear to the hot water cylinder.
I have read some of the other problems on this site, and i think it is worth mentioning that the large water tank in the loft looks like it has been raised at some time, presumably to provide better pressure at the taps, but the heating water tank is still sat on the joists, about 3 feet lower. Not sure if it's relevent.
Colin
 
The height difference shouldn't be a problem. The gurgling sound might lessen as the air in the system settles. There should be an air vent (either manual of automatic) on the flow to the cylinder to get air out of that leg of the pipework. To maybe force it out quicker try turning the pump speed to maximum for a bit (turn back to original setting after playing a bit) and alternating heating only, hot water only, both, etc...

Good luck... these heating systems are not really rocket science.
 
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I think I have got all the air from the system. Some of the other posts to this site talk about the coil inside the cylinder leaking, would that cause hot water to discharge into the header tank?
 
If the F&E tank is LOWER than the cold water storage tank AND you have a leak in the coil in the hot water cylinder, water will flow from cylinder into coil and the level in the F&E will gradually rise until it overflows, depending on the size of the hole. Air should not be an issue at all in this situation.

If you're hearing gurgling noises, rads fill with air and the thing does not settle down within a couple of days, there's probably an air leak somewhere.

Make sure you turn the system OFF before you bleed rads, otherwise you may be letting more air in!
 
This may give problems as the water levels in each cistern will try to even themselves. Has your hot water gone a little off colour? This can happen if the coil is perforated somewhere.
 
No i haven't noticed any discolouration in the hot water, but that may be because the system has been flushed a couple of times and the system water is fairly clean. I guess there's no easy way to tell if the coil is perforated.
It might just as well be rocket science at the moment!
 

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