Is this my last ISAR problem before I get a new boiler?

[^woody^]

The boiler went off yesterday, and it was leaking water from the seal on the bit of pipe below the auto air vent. This had tracked its way down the innards, but the electrical connections seemed dry

I'd changed this vent about 6 months ago after it dripped water onto the back of the display unit and corroded the connection to the PCB. But this time it was the bit of pipe below this - the seal was hardened rubber and had cracked.

Anyway, the boiler was running without the display unit working for the past few months.

So, I sorted out the seal, but now the boiler wont come on - there is a click from the main PCB when the on/off switch is used. Fuse is OK

And then I noticed dripping from the bottom of the boiler where the HW outlet pipe meets the black casing behind the actuator valve. This stops when I shut off the cold water supply to the boiler. It does not seem like the joint, and I can't see where it is coming from

I cleaned the connector the the display PCB and remade the corroded tracks, to see if the display would come on and give me a fault code. But just two LEDs (one under HW and one under burner) come on dimly.

So does this seem like the main PCB has gone?

What would have caused his drip on the HW side of things - surely this won't be related?

 

[gas4you]

Is this an Isar M30100, or a newer Isar HE?

If it's the former then get rid. If it's the latter then get rid

Or you could get Ideal out on a fixed price £210 repair. Drawback is you're still left with the Isar

 

[^woody^]

Thanks. Its the older ISAR - about 8 years old.

No problems except a new PCB a couple of years ago, and the auto vent a few months ago.

But I am wondering if it is worth spending a few £00 on it now if it needs a new main board and potentially some other stuff

 

[bengasman]

If your boiler is anything like the average isar, you should get it replaced if you can afford to have a quality boiler installed properly. If you can't afford a proper job at the moment, get it repaired as there is no point in replacing an old problem with a new one.

 

[gas_man_gaz]

Is this an Isar M30100, or a newer Isar HE?

If it's the former then get rid. If it's the latter then get rid

Or you could get Ideal out on a fixed price £210 repair. Drawback is you're still left with the Isar

bg do it for around £168, id get rid tho "heat engine" will prob be nxt!

 

[Deleted member 105431]

Ideal boilers are cheap (except for spares), unreliable tat. They have a long history of making exceptionally poor products.

 

[^woody^]

My probelm was a leak from between the sump and the cast heat exchanger - the sealant paste has gone, and some water drips out of this when the exchanger is cold. After running and heating up, it must reseal itself. The leak had blew the main board somehow

There does not seem to be much coming out of the condensate pipe either, and the sump did seem pretty dry

How much of a big job is this - removing the heat exchanger assembly and remaking the joints?

Would it be worth using BG's fixed fee service - ie will they sort out the seal and replace the board

 

[^woody^]

duplicate deleted

 

[idealnumber1]

bg do a heat ex as a fixed repair on this boiler? i doubt it

 

[nickso]

bg do a heat ex as a fixed repair on this boiler? i doubt it

that would likely be classed as uneconomical to repair.

even if it wasnt most would refuse to replace it on that turd.