sikkens satura onto coverstain

  • Thread starter Thread starter deanibusmaximus
  • Start date Start date
D

deanibusmaximus

I have been working in the same building as a very experienced carpenter that has been renovating the timber sash windows. He is also a skilled glasier and does alot of the redecoration on windows too.

He says that he uses Zinsser coverstain as a primer and then goes straight on with Sikkens Satura semi gloss spirit based, and claims to get good longevity out of his paint jobs (up to around eight years). he uses the same system both internally and externally on both old and new work.

Has anyone else tried this or a similar system? whilst I use coverstain all the time as a troubleshooter, I have never used it as a main go-to primer.
Any thoughts on this? Or better ideas?
I am quite traditional in my methods, but I am always interested to hear what alternatives people are using on windows and doors especially externally.
 
Dean,

I have to admit that you have me rather stumped here, my reaction would be that I dont invisage any problems, yet I dont often use the Zinsser range and more rely on older methods. dcdec is well versed with both Zinsser and Sikkens and would be able to offer you the correct advice.

Dec
 
Dean,

I have to admit that you have me rather stumped here, my reaction would be that I dont invisage any problems, yet I dont often use the Zinsser range and more rely on older methods. dcdec is well versed with both Zinsser and Sikkens and would be able to offer you the correct advice.

Dec

Ditto.
 
For internal applications i wouldnt use the oil based satura as the WB (BL) hybrid is just as good and you wont get the yellowing that we all know about. If i remember right the BL cannot be used externally but could be wrong. I use coverstain alot and now carry it in the aerosol can version as well which is really handy, its great for priming caulk and sprayed a rad this week to prevent stain bleed from a contamination of god knows what it was.

I know a lot of decs are using coverstain and 123 as an undercoat and for use as a specific timber primer coverstain is excellent because its a penetrating sealer and importantly its flexible. It accepts top coats well so skipping an undercoat isnt going to cause adhesion problems but externally i'd go two coats of satura on top of the coverstain. The other big advantage is its fast drying and sands well.

Hope that helps
 
Thanks all! I personally did not see a problem with this system but my Zinsser product knowledge is not A1.

I like the idea of using sikkens BL indoors and the oil based outside.
As for using Coverstain for the priming, I think I might give it a go as it seems like it will do a good job and save lots of drying time, plus u/c.

I like the idea of the handy spray for priming caulk, or in my case red devil
:D
(says the caulk word very quietly)
 
I know a lot of decs are using coverstain and 123 as an undercoat and for use as a specific timber primer coverstain is excellent because its a penetrating sealer and importantly its flexible. It accepts top coats well so skipping an undercoat isnt going to cause adhesion problems but externally i'd go two coats of satura on top of the coverstain. Hope that helps

I've used the Coverstain as a primer on small pieces of bare timber when I've had nothing else to hand and haven't had any comeback but I've never used Sikkens with it so it's good to know it will work if I ever do.

@ dcdec,

Is there a Sikkens product for interior timber that has a high gloss finish? I can't seem to find one and am not too clued up on their products having only used any of them on the odd occasion. Most of my jobs tend to require a gloss finish rather than satin/semi gloss - we're a bit afraid of change here in the Valleys!! :lol:
 
Hi Mr H,

Yep, Rubbol AZ plus, its very good and provides a lovely finish. There is also rubbol az express which is faster drying and in my opinion if its like the onol express its not so easy to apply as it sets up a bit quicker so personally i avoid it.

As far as i can make out with sikkens labeling the suffix 'Plus' signifies 2010 compliance and so it will always be alkyd based and BL indicates water based/alkyd hybrid.

There is not a WB based gloss available in the UK and i have emailed sikkens and asked why not but just got fobbed off. I do know of one web site thats offers two WB glosses but they are expensive.
I have heard that the sikkens dutch paints are higher quality than the uk ones, wouldnt be surprised as the dutch are probably the best painters in the world with very long apprenticeships so they demand high quality from their coatings.
 
Thanks for the heads-up and taking the time to answer, dcdec.
I'll give it a try at some point but it seems that, with water based paints being the products of the future, I'll have to get some of the old stick-in-the-muds to move away from a shiny finish as well as getting them to part with the extra cash! :lol:

Cheers,
mrH :)
 
For internal applications i wouldnt use the oil based satura as the WB (BL) hybrid is just as good and you wont get the yellowing that we all know about.

Supposedly the Sikkens Satura OB does not yellow, or hardly. I was told by Sikkens (Dulux) support that they have never had a case of it yellowing, though I question the reliability of their information as they told me the yellowing issues with Dulux OB white gloss paint had been fixed. Unlike most OB white paints, Sikkens Satura OB does not use linseed oil, and it is that ingredient that causes a lot, and possibly most, of the yellowing in other paints. Also satin paints are less susceptible to yellowing, possibly due to the lower resin content. I can testify that Dulux white gloss OB paint (blue tin, manufactured ~7 months ago) goes yellow in ~3 months. In 6 months the wood I painted with Sikkens Satura OB is still brilliant white.

I found the Satura OB needed one coat primer, one coat undercoat, 2 top coats to get sufficient depth of whiteness.
 
BTW - did you ever sort your bathroom?

Off topic, but the bathroom was refitted to a good standard and the court documents are nearly ready for submission. It takes ages to prepare. Three copies of everything, copies of all letters, lots of A4 photographs, adhesive manufacturers datasheets etc.
 
So who's fault was it in the end? The guys that did it or the site that you went through?
 

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