sorting out the kitchen floor

[Chin85]

hi all

i hate the tiles on my kitchen floor, they are old fashioned looking, cold and ugly.

we had most of the house renovated a year ago but didnt really touch the kitchen but now i want to take it on.

the tiles in the kitchen sit approx 1-2cm below the adjoining laminate from the rooms that connect to it so i have a bit of space to play with.

so a couple of questions;

- if i want to put new tiles down, is it possible to lay new tiles on the old existing tiles? as ugly as they are, they are solid with no cracks etc.

- if i want to put laminate down to match the other rooms, i'm aware that i laminate around the appliances and cupboards which is good, but what do i use to stop the laminate moving as with other rooms the laminate is pushed up against the skirting boards etc.

any help appreciated

James

 

[geraldthehamster]

I don't see why you couldn't tile on top of the existing tiles, if they are firmly attached.

When I tiled my kitchen in slate, the combined thickness of tile and adhesive was around 20mm, which would bring it level to your laminate if you were sufficiently cunning.

 

[dazlight]

Maybe look at latex screed over the tiles then LVT like Karndean.

 

[TicTac]

Well, if the existing tiles are ugly and cold, the new ones will just be pretty, and cold - as will the laminate. But you can put done self leveling compound, and then laminate, or you can tile on top of the existing tiles.

 

[Chin85]

thanks all

am looking into some underfloor heating (electrical wiring type) with some new tiles on top of the old existing...

 

[ClockPie]

We used foam insulation with a vapour barrier, electric UFH, and 14mm engineered oak (floating). Makes kitchen SO MUCH warmer, bare foot most of the time and so much warmer than tiles even in hall where same setup but no UFH. We did a tiled area in bootroom with 2x the insulation but that still feels colder than the wood.

Good luck

 

[Chin85]

We used foam insulation with a vapour barrier, electric UFH, and 14mm engineered oak (floating). Makes kitchen SO MUCH warmer, bare foot most of the time and so much warmer than tiles even in hall where same setup but no UFH. We did a tiled area in bootroom with 2x the insulation but that still feels colder than the wood.

Good luck

thanks @ClockPie - how does laminate/engineered work around appliances and cupboards?
specifically what do you rest the wood against as it's not like other rooms where there is skirting boards to use?

 

[ClockPie]

thanks @ClockPie - how does laminate/engineered work around appliances and cupboards?
specifically what do you rest the wood against as it's not like other rooms where there is skirting boards to use?

See video linked below We have the unit legs going to the original "floor", and the engineered oak goes under the units and the plinth goes over it. Looks very neat. But all our appliances were built in as part of the design. We have skirting on a couple of walls we just replaced.

 

[TicTac]

If you're after electric UFH, then you'll need to lift the old tiles, level the floor, and then put down insulation, otherwise you'll be heating the old tiles and the new tiles at the same time - not so effective.

 

[John D v2.0]

If you're after electric UFH, then you'll need to lift the old tiles, level the floor, and then put down insulation, otherwise you'll be heating the old tiles and the new tiles at the same time - not so effective.

Worse than that, tiles are much more thermally conductive than air, so most of the heat will be going into the ground. Imagine knocking a huge hole in your external wall and putting a massive radiator in the hole, plastering over on the inside, and hoping it's cost effective.