At my wits end with this heating system PLEASE HELP!

[Hugh Jaleak]

Take your time, make sure pipe and fitting are scrupulously clean before fluxing, and, (especially with 22mm pipe), as I said above, a decent blowlamp is a must. Hoping this will sort your issue out!

 

[iateyoubutler]

Take your time, make sure pipe and fitting are scrupulously clean before fluxing, and, (especially with 22mm pipe), as I said above, a decent blowlamp is a must. Hoping this will sort your issue out!

Will do Going to drain it down and make a start this weekend, will post up my progress

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Duplicate post removed!

 

[iateyoubutler]

Update. Taken the floor up today to see where the HWC return heads off to, and to try to find out why I`m getting reverse circulation when the (very gurgly) hot water is on. The cupboard on the left is where my original photos were taken, and the two main pipes visible there are the flow (left) and return (right) to the boiler. The flow to the radiators heads off, just out of sight underneath the piece of floor at the bottom middle of the photo. Also in that same position the 15mm return from the hot water joins the main return circuit - you can just see it.

I ran the hot water to see what gets hot and when, and as I suspected the heating return pipe gets pretty hot.

So, the first thing I`m going to tackle is getting rid of the 15mm return from the cylinder. Will this need to go all the way back to the boiler? Or can it go down to the original point where it is now?

My brain is fried right now!!

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Replace the existing 15mm cylinder return to the point it meets the existing 22mm return. Also worth noting, (as not sure if it is the case), all the returns from the radiators need to be taken to one common point and then the cylinder return added, before heading back to the boiler. Trying to connect rad returns between there and the boiler will only cause problems. .

 

[iateyoubutler]

Replace the existing 15mm cylinder return to the point it meets the existing 22mm return. Also worth noting, (as not sure if it is the case), all the returns from the radiators need to be taken to one common point and then the cylinder return added, before heading back to the boiler. Trying to connect rad returns between there and the boiler will only cause problems. .

Thanks. There is actually a radiator in between. 6 of them are together on one circuit, then the cylinder return, and then the radiator for the bathroom is on its own (just visible on the right of the photo), between the cylinder return and the boiler

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

I would, while you've got it all drained down, and the floorboards up, reroute the return from the Bathroom rad to couple into the return pipework before the cylinder return connects. If need be, use the 15mm currently used as the cylinder return to connect this to, then cut in a new 22mm return connection for the cylinder further along nearer the boiler.

It's been a while since I fitted a heating system now, but something in the back of my mind says the cylinder return needs to be the last connection before the boiler. Might, just might, be part of your issue here.

 

[gas112]

Worked perfectly OK before new boiler problem occurred after new boiler, first thing I would check is he never mixed up flow and return pipes at boiler

 

[iateyoubutler]

Worked perfectly OK before new boiler problem occurred after new boiler, first thing I would check is he never mixed up flow and return pipes at boiler

That did stop me in my tracks! But have checked, as I managed to eventually find the books for it, and the boiler is connected correctly

 

[BoilerBob]

When your soldering wet the area first and try to have a fire extinguisher handy just in case also keep checking it after for at least an hour as a spark can smoulder for a long time safety first. Bob

 

[iateyoubutler]

When your soldering wet the area first and try to have a fire extinguisher handy just in case also keep checking it after for at least an hour as a spark can smoulder for a long time safety first. Bob

Noted Taking no chances on that front, I`ve just removed all the rubbish that`s under the floor and vacuumed it out. The amount all flammable stuff down there was unbelievable. Got plenty of open space to work, and blow lamps scare me so I tend to be a bit too cautious. Fingers crossed all will be good!

 

[iateyoubutler]

Also, effing drain cocks are going to lead me to a nervous breakdown. It took all day yesterday to drain the cylinder because all I could get at best was a dribble, and the same now with the two above the boiler - wide open and just drip drip drip..............

 

[JohnD]

Also, effing drain cocks are going to lead me to a nervous breakdown. It took all day yesterday to drain the cylinder because all I could get at best was a dribble, and the same now with the two above the boiler - wide open and just drip drip drip..............

rubber washer probably perished and stuck. Consider removing the old cocks and fitting new. A full-bore cock is a great help, and some have the same thread as garden tap, so you can attach a hose. look for one warrranted to tolerate the high temperatures.

Pegler lever valves and washing machine valves are rated to 120C which I would have thought sufficient (though I fitted capnuts just in case)

 

[iateyoubutler]

Well, the day started well, and I have to admit defeat and get the pro`s in to solder it up for me, I`m out of my depth...........

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

What's the issue Chap?