Potterton to Hive help

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Hi I want to replace my ep2000 with Hive but if I just replace the wires like for like it won’t remove the thermostat, can I just leave the star and then have it turned off/on all the time, or is there an easy way to remove it, I have pictures but not sure how you post them on here, do I have to host them somewhere?
Alan (many thanks in advance)
 

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Because the Hive carries out the functions of the room thermostat, the old wired thermostat needs to be decommissioned to prevent it overriding the Hive. It can't simply be disconnected as this would leave the heating wiring 'open circuit' and the heating will not operate.

You could simply leave the old thermostat in place and set it to its maximum setting. Although if it's battery operated the batteries would need to be maintained.

If you want to remove it completely:

1. Look at the wiring diagram for the make/mode of thermostat that you are removing. If you don't have the instructions for it, a diagram is usually printed inside the lid. This will show which are the two switching wires, and which is the neutral wire. (If there is a neutral present. Not all thermostats need, or have one fitted)

2. Trace the thermostat cable back to its origin.

3. Take take a photo, or make a note of where the switching wires are connected at their origin.

4. Disconnect all of the wires going to the old thermostat and remove the cable and thermostat. All other wires to remain in place.

5. Insert a wire link between the terminals where the two switching wires have just been removed from, so that they are now electrically joined together.

If you need more assistance you can upload the photos by clicking on 'edit' then the 'more options' button and then 'upload a file'. Alternatively details of the make / model of the thermostat would assist.
 
Last edited:
The thermostat looks like a Horstmann HRT3, in which case, the wiring terminals will be:

Capture.JPG


If you trace the cable from the thermostat back to its origin, you are interested where the wires coming from (1) L and (3) Load are connected.

Disconnect all of the wires in the thermostat cable at its origin and then insert a wire to link together the two terminals where the wires that go to the thermostat (1) and (3) have just been removed from, so that they are electrically connected. This completes the circuit that has been broken by the removal of the old room thermostat.

The Hive Dual Channel version replaces the Potterton programmer. The 5th terminal that the Potterton has provides a live link to the switching circuits. Hive has this link made internally already, so the 5th terminal isn't required.
 
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The thermostat looks like a Horstmann HRT3, in which case, the wiring terminals will be:

View attachment 261015

If you trace the cable from the thermostat back to its origin, you are interested where the wires coming from (1) L and (3) Load are connected.

Disconnect all of the wires in the thermostat cable at its origin and then insert a wire to link together the two terminals where the wires that go to the thermostat (1) and (3) have just been removed from, so that they are electrically connected. This completes the circuit that has been broken by the removal of the old room thermostat.

The Hive Dual Channel version replaces the Potterton programmer. The 5th terminal that the Potterton has provides a live link to the switching circuits. Hive has this link made internally already, so the 5th terminal isn't required.


Hi Stem
Could I get your opinion on my system for a smart meter install? I wasn’t able to send you a PM
https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/honeywell-t6r-hw-install.586571/
 
Thanks for the invite :) I had to disable my PM's as I was deluged with requests for assistance that hadn't been posted on the public forum. I've never installed a ES WPB-Three, but apart from the 'plug in' accessories the rest of the wiring looks fairly usual, so I've given my thoughts on your other thread.
 

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