Air source Heat Pump

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I note the tech has moved on since these first came on the market and I am considering removing the entire gas supply to my house. My current boiler is late 1990s and as part of an extension I will be replacing this. The Gas meter cupboard is where I intend to build, so rather than install a new gas boiler I am tempted to switch to an air source pump and remove the gas supply completely.

The extension will mean roughly 50% of the external surfaces will comply with current building regs ~ U .19, with the rest being around 0.75. (thin cavity wall). Is underfloor heating a must? Am I basically doubling the capacity of the radiators to cope?
I have reversible aircon in 3 rooms already, so this can top up the heating on really cold days. I'll be adding around 6kw of Solar PV too.

any advice?
 
I have used heat pumps to cool the home and work spaces for years, 1980 Algeria was the first time, and even back then the pump could be run in reverse and heat instead of cool, today even fitted in electric cars to heat the car, and the technology has clearly moved on. But now we talk about the "however", and one is being fitted correctly, easy with a cassette type, where the unit fits in a hole in the wall/window, but as an installed device, the efficiency can be 100 - 500% depending on how well selected and fitted, and there are very few installers who seem to know what they are doing.

The other is I have lived through 1978-9 Winter of discontent and found out first hand what it is like relying on electric for heating, since then always had a house with a gas fire, or open fire, and with this house installed solar panels and battery, with an UPS built in, so even with an electric power cut my central heating will still work.

So part of the fitting of heat pumps needs to include the back-up plan, a heating method that will work during a power cut.

The other problem is my oil fired central heating boiler is larger than any heat pump I could get with the existing supply to the house, and it works on a just in time principle, rooms are not heated 24/7, but heated before that are going to be used, with programmable TRV heads in every room, this has reduced the cost of heating, with living room turned off at 11 pm and bedrooms on at 10 pm etc. This relies on the boiler and radiators having a short recovery time, the boiler is only ticking over most of the time, but the ability to re-heat a room fast when required, means when not required I can let the room cool.

If the heat pump is only just big enough to maintain the house, you can't let a room cool, and if the heat pump is oversized, it is not efficient, so to do what I am doing, would not work with a heat pump, so they cost so much more to run as can't allow rooms to cool.

The cure is a hybrid, where gas is still there to allow fast warm up, likely LPG so no standing charge, but to get a grant, the old system has to be ripped out, and also to get a grant, it can only heat the home, it can't be cool as well, so not the system to fit if we are getting global warming.

I hope the government will see sense and change the rules to get grants, but as it stands, heat pumps are simply too expensive, there is no reason why a back-up can't be built in, etc. But not, and also get a grant. So I would not even consider fitting a whole house heat pump, I do have a small one to cool the living room however, cooling not a problem, as if I need to cool the house, then loads of solar energy, so only costs loss of payment for export.
 
I thought the gas boiler still needed electricity to work the ignition and pump
A gas boiler does require electricity to operate. This load is typically less than 100 watts. that is a load that could be supplied by a battery and invertor. Most air source heat pumps fall within the 3,500-7,000 watt (3.5-7 kW) range.

It battery and invertor fails then a gas hob and sauce pans and a box of matches will provide hot water and some heating
 
If I did consider a heat pump, then it would have to be ground source and not air for the extra efficiency. Although at 82 I would not live long enough to reap the long-term benefits.
 
Is underfloor heating a must? Am I basically doubling the capacity of the radiators to cope?
I have never fancied the idea of underfloor heating because as far as I have read it needs to be on constantly to be efficient. So in the summer when it is off and we have cold days with a radiator system you can flick it on and warm up quickly but by the time an underfloor system has warmed up the weather has turned warm again and you dont need it.
 
A gas boiler does require electricity to operate. This load is typically less than 100 watts. that is a load that could be supplied by a battery and invertor. Most air source heat pumps fall within the 3,500-7,000 watt (3.5-7 kW) range.

It battery and invertor fails then a gas hob and sauce pans and a box of matches will provide hot water and some heating
You’ve tried the battery and Invertor idea I take it ? Lol
 
For an air source heat pump to work properly the house needs to be heated at a max flow temp of 50

They have a place, just not many houses are suitable imho.
 
You’ve tried the battery and Invertor idea I take it ? Lol
I haven't used battery and invertor to power my gas boiler other than a short trial. Battery and invertor have been used to supply an oil fired boiler during prolonged power cuts.
 
A gas boiler does require electricity to operate. This load is typically less than 100 watts. that is a load that could be supplied by a battery and invertor. Most air source heat pumps fall within the 3,500-7,000 watt (3.5-7 kW) range.

It battery and invertor fails then a gas hob and sauce pans and a box of matches will provide hot water and some heating
You’ve tried the battery and Inve
 
Absolutely makes sense to explore ASHP options if you are replacing the gas boiler anyway- even more so with solar albeit granted you won't see much benefit in the winter months.

UFH not required and probably unlikely you need to double capacity of all of the radiators.
 

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