Fireplace

[Diggory]

Hi there - I want to close off / delete an old fireplace and grateful of some advice.

I’ve removed the brick surround, mantle and firebox.
It’s had some damp - the lime base mortar is very soft..
The bricks are (very) Soft Reds and are quite fragile.
I’d like to fix in a frame to support some ply or plaster board (and air vent).
My worry is how to get a descent fixing and not blow bricks everywhere.

Does this seem a reasonable approach:

1.) I level off jagged brickwork sides with some render.
2.) I fix two 3x2 battens to the flat-ish render surface with (say) CT1
3.) I then fix my frame to the battens with stainless steel screws

Re the damp; I’m planning on an injected liquid DPC and then re-plastering after the (salt laden) plaster hacked off.
I’m hoping to hang a column radiator on chimney breast in the picture and in the adjoining room (back to back chimney) fit a log burner.
Hopefully these two new heat sources will help maintain some level of dryness going forward.

Thanks D

 

[noseall]

Hi there - I want to close off / delete an old fireplace and grateful of some advice.

I’ve removed the brick surround, mantle and firebox.
It’s had some damp - the lime base mortar is very soft..
The bricks are (very) Soft Reds and are quite fragile.
I’d like to fix in a frame to support some ply or plaster board (and air vent).
My worry is how to get a descent fixing and not blow bricks everywhere.

Does this seem a reasonable approach:

1.) I level off jagged brickwork sides with some render.
2.) I fix two 3x2 battens to the flat-ish render surface with (say) CT1
3.) I then fix my frame to the battens with stainless steel screws

Re the damp; I’m planning on an injected liquid DPC and then re-plastering after the (salt laden) plaster hacked off.
I’m hoping to hang a column radiator on chimney breast in the picture and in the adjoining room (back to back chimney) fit a log burner.
Hopefully these two new heat sources will help maintain some level of dryness going forward.

Thanks D

Most builders would use masonry there and brick it up, so that you have continuity of materials (no awkward hollow spots). You could then plaster the wall with a protective SBR and admixture based s/c render.

If you are going to stud it..

Don't bother with the render leveller. Pointless. The bricks up the jambs have been hacked to death and may not yield a good fixing. We'd probably opt for a 150mm concrete screw and go into the better bricks beyond those on the edge. No need for CT1.

 

[Diggory]

Thanks for talking time to reply NOSEALL.

“If you are going to stud it..”

It’s a back to back chimney in three rooms that’s blown plaster everywhere.
The plan is to hack back to brickwork, inject a liquid DPC then new render/plaster.
The plaster will be a lime restoration plaster and gypsum skim.

“brick it up”

I did wonder if this might be best option.
But I wanted to leave the fireplace open for access to inject DPC.
Then screw in the plasterboard panel and let the plasterer crack straight on.

I’ll ask the DPM company the merits of the internal fireplace application.
If it doesn’t add much value - I’ll brick it up /or get it bricked up (and add airbrick).

I do have a stack of imperial soft reds; if I did have a go myself:
- would 4:1 builders sand + Plasticiser be suitable mix
- would I key the new bricks into what’s left of the existing jambs
- does that rusty old steel support need replacing

Much appreciated

D

 

[Diggory]

I do have a stack of imperial soft reds; if I did have a go myself:
- would 4:1 builders sand + Plasticiser be suitable mix
- would I key the new bricks into what’s left of the existing jambs
- does that rusty old steel support need replacing

Question to all; any thoughts / advice on this
Quite tempted to have a go

All Best D

 

[noseall]

Question to all; any thoughts / advice on this
Quite tempted to have a go

All Best D

I'd grab a handful of blocks and use those. No need for elaborate tying in. Whack a nail in or a pop a concrete screw in.

 

[Diggory]

Thanks reply

I'd grab a handful of blocks

like these ?

Best D

 

[noseall]

Thanks reply

like these ?

Best D

Similar. We'd use 3.5n fibolites.

 

[Diggory]

Picked up some Aerated Blocks.
They’ll pretty much fill the opening.
I’ll have some generous gaps down the jambs to fill.
And I’ll have to cut the top one in
(I’m assuming I’ll leave the old rusty steel in place).
It looks more straightforward than my original Soft Red option - thank you.

Would 4:1 builders sand + a Plasticiser be my best bet.

All best D

 

[noseall]

Picked up some Aerated Blocks.
They’ll pretty much fill the opening.
I’ll have some generous gaps down the jambs to fill.
And I’ll have to cut the top one in
(I’m assuming I’ll leave the old rusty steel in place).
It looks more straightforward than my original Soft Red option - thank you.

Would 4:1 builders sand + a Plasticiser be my best bet.

All best D

Yes, builders sand 5:1.

Use DPC under the block.

Put your bed down, then butter the sides of the block AND butter the wall sides too. It will key into the slot so much better, especially with those bigger joints.

 

[Diggory]

Thanks for the advice - much appreciated.
I’ll use a 5:1 as you’ve recommended.

Do you think a Plasticiser necessary.
The fireplace mortar is heavily lime based.

Best D

 

[noseall]

Thanks for the advice - much appreciated.
I’ll use a 5:1 as you’ve recommended.

Do you think a Plasticiser necessary.
The fireplace mortar is heavily lime based.

Best D

Yes. A small blob of Fairy in the mix.