Building a stud wall - how hard can it be - help!!

[wannadie]

I am going to attempt to build my first stud wall tomorrow and I am scared.

I have created a design that has taken way too long and trying to learn sketch up at the same time.

I am using 4x2 and 400 centres which I think is very over-engineered. The room will be an office an eventually become an ensuite so I think a rigid wall is a good thing.

I am thinking I should add noggins as the ceilings are high. What height should I add the noggins and should they be straight or staggered?

The door is close to the corner of the room. Is it really worth doing a base plate? or should I just run the stud & the 'king' stud (fancy words) to the floor.

Any other improvements or comments will probabely be appriciated.

Ta...
Matt

 

[wannadie]

By the way... if it is not obvious... I only showed board on one side.

 

[mattylad]

I have only built one myself.

I would add the noggins staggered, because otherwise it's hard to hammer nails into them lol.

Having them at board joint levels might be useful.

 

[wannadie]

I have only built one myself.

I would add the noggins staggered, because otherwise it's hard to hammer nails into them lol.

Having them at board joint levels might be useful.

I was going to use plasterboard screws rather than nails.

I could double up the noggins if I need to secure board. I suspect I will have lots of scrap so why not.

 

[cdbe]

Long thin 3mm pilot drill from Toolstation. If you have a clamp it's good for keeping everything lined up. Double stud round doors. I try to board vertically one side and horizontal the other to stagger joins.

I've always found a well built 3x2 solid enough at standard ceiling hight.

 

[stevie888]

You don't need the double headplate for retrofitting a partition but certainly keep the baseplate.

I'd sticking with 4x as those are pretty high ceilings.

If you're doing it for yourself there's nothing at all wrong with over engineering: I am constantly accused of this by SWMBO but never had anything fail. I set my nogs to suit the 1200 dimension so I can then board either way (and use up odd bits of board). The first one will be 1200 floor to centre then 1200 centre centre. (Same for your studs: the first board will cover the whole width so you need to set the studs to suit.)

I also use long screws as much less vibration than banging in nails and the way that works for me is to go to gaps no 2, 4 etc and set the nog in screwed straiight through. Then come back and infill driving your screws at an angle. With a fixed point either side its dead easy to keep the line. Take the time to cut them accurately: if you have a chop saw that's a game changer as you can pare a gnat's off to get a really snug fit.

Good luck and enjoy.

 

[foxhole]

Plasterboard screws are not suitable. They are too thin use timber screws . 4x2 are standard for stud work , not ott .

 

[RrogerD]

Always place noggins to suit board edges. Edges of plasterboard everywhere should be supported. You can obviously have them placed as one noggin to overlap two board edges. I tend to always fit boards vertically as well.

 

[endecotp]

Your only chance of fitting the top board as shown without breaking off the thin bit left of the door is to fit a whole sheet first, and then cut out the door opening.

I would fit boards vertically normally. How many spare hands do you have to help?

Place noggins to suit board edges, plus maybe some extras if you have left overs. No need for double top stud.

Put some acoustic insulation slabs inside the wall.

Pay attention to doorway size and straightness. Do you have a laser?

 

[ree]

OP,
You are merely building a partition - not a supporting wall.
Use 4" x 2" - long lengths are readily available.
Run the floor plate through in a single uncut length - use the loose floor plate to determine where you want the partition to go.
When satisfied Pin the floor plate down - & then drop plumb lines down from the ceiling to the floor plate to find the top plate position on the ceiling.
Fix the top plate (you only need a single top plate), & then fix the bottom plate.
Then fill in with the studs - leave a gap all around the rough opening for the door lining.
Have the door & lining on site - & cut the bottom plate door opening when all dimensions are good.
Use due diligence to find the fixing points in floor & ceiling joists, & avoid utilities.
Consider the door swing, & any elec. switches in the partition.
As you mentioned, Install the p/b's horizontal from the ceiling down. Always cover the opening with a single p/b - dont use cut boards or pieces of board.

 

[foxhole]

If you have access for large boards you could use 3m plasterboard , far less joints.

 

[wannadie]

I have only built one myself.

I would add the noggins staggered, because otherwise it's hard to hammer nails into them lol.

Having them at board joint levels might be useful.

I am planning to add, but keep them straight on plasterboard edges, so each piece will be secured.

 

[wannadie]

You don't need the double headplate for retrofitting a partition but certainly keep the baseplate.

I'd sticking with 4x as those are pretty high ceilings.

If you're doing it for yourself there's nothing at all wrong with over engineering: I am constantly accused of this by SWMBO but never had anything fail. I set my nogs to suit the 1200 dimension so I can then board either way (and use up odd bits of board). The first one will be 1200 floor to centre then 1200 centre centre. (Same for your studs: the first board will cover the whole width so you need to set the studs to suit.)

I also use long screws as much less vibration than banging in nails and the way that works for me is to go to gaps no 2, 4 etc and set the nog in screwed straiight through. Then come back and infill driving your screws at an angle. With a fixed point either side its dead easy to keep the line. Take the time to cut them accurately: if you have a chop saw that's a game changer as you can pare a gnat's off to get a really snug fit.

Good luck and enjoy.

Thanks for the advice. I am enjoying it so far.
Have cut back some wall and working out the best exiting joists and studs to screw to.

 

[wannadie]

Long thin 3mm pilot drill from Toolstation. If you have a clamp it's good for keeping everything lined up. Double stud round doors. I try to board vertically one side and horizontal the other to stagger joins.

I've always found a well built 3x2 solid enough at standard ceiling hight.

I have clamps. How does the long pilot drill help?!

 

[wannadie]

Plasterboard screws are not suitable. They are too thin use timber screws . 4x2 are standard for stud work , not ott .

I have an assortment of sizes of turbogold screws for the frame. Would only use plasterboard screws (black) for fixing the board or is that no good?