Changing toilet

[Keitai]

The balcock is being held on with gaffer tape, the handle is sticking, the lid on top of cistern is cracked. Decided to change the toilet. Do I isolate where circled then undo rusted screws in cistern then pull out soil pipe? Was gonna get adjustment things for soil pipe and flexible pipe to adjust incoming water.

Another idea was to get an electric socket fitted where isolation valve is getting an electrician to run a cable through the trunking already there for heater back to consumer unitvun storage room next door but may ditch that idea. For heated seat on toilet.

 

[denso13]

Yes to everything really.

 

[endecotp]

ALWAYS CLOSE THE LID BEFORE POSTING PHOTOS OF A LOO.

 

[fixitflav]

Was gonna get adjustment things for soil pipe and flexible pipe to adjust incoming

I wouldn't use a flexi, rigid pipe looks (and lasts) much better. There's some excuse for flexis to kitchen sink taps, which can be hard to get to, but even then if it's DIY so time spent isn't a problem, it's worth making the effort to use rigid. That will last indefinitely and adds rigidity to the taps, useful with a stainless steel sink. In your case with easy access it wouldn't be much of a problem, maybe use the existing pipe if the cistern is same size.

 

[ChrisJP]

ALWAYS CLOSE THE LID BEFORE POSTING PHOTOS OF A LOO.

And/or actually FLUSH the loo before photographing it!

 

[blup]

Seal and tape the soil pipe with a plastic bag if its going to be left for more than a few minutes, to prevent unpleasant smells and potentially dangerous gases from the sewer pipes.

 

[Keitai]

ALWAYS CLOSE THE LID BEFORE POSTING PHOTOS OF A LOO.

Too late to delete that photo now unfortunately

 

[foxhole]

You may not get rusty screws out , once emptied easy to tap rear of cistern around screws with hammer till it breaks.

 

[opps]

You may not get rusty screws out , once emptied easy to tap rear of cistern around screws with hammer till it breaks.

Agreed. Ideally they would be brass or stainless steel screws.

 

[Keitai]

You may not get rusty screws out , once emptied easy to tap rear of cistern around screws with hammer till it breaks.

Shatter the cistern?

BTW, the isolation valve is very stiff but does turn, worth changing?

 

[foxhole]

Shatter the cistern?

BTW, the isolation valve is very stiff but does turn, worth changing?View attachment 405189

Yes , break cistern and change valve .

 

[ree]

OP,
If you do intend to remove your low level WC & replace it with a close coupled WC then do as Poster #11 says.
But first remove as much water as possible & isolate the water supply to the pan.
Then cut the soil pipe flush with the wall - this will enable your new WC to be installed tight to the wall surface.
Use a new isolation valve with a handle - avoid the slotted service valve type.
FWIW: take into account any new tiling on the floor or on the back wall.

 

[opps]

As above, I would go for one with a handle. I have lost count of the amount of slotted ones that have started squirting out water when turning the slot. If you consider the lever unsightly, you can remove the handle until needed.

 

[Keitai]

Thinking of going for the traditional looking one Burlington close coupled. Put a modern one in photos too but prefer Burlington Figured it would cover where the old toilet went on vinyl. Gotta plumb in inlet pipe as current one enters at the top. This one lower





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[Keitai]

I wouldn't use a flexi, rigid pipe looks (and lasts) much better. There's some excuse for flexis to kitchen sink taps, which can be hard to get to, but even then if it's DIY so time spent isn't a problem, it's worth making the effort to use rigid. That will last indefinitely and adds rigidity to the taps, useful with a stainless steel sink. In your case with easy access it wouldn't be much of a problem, maybe use the existing pipe if the cistern is same size.

Thxs.

Gonna look at where the water goes in and if it matches it with different toilets. Some enter at the bottom. Is it easy enough to solder and connect the pipes together?