Poster #14,
So you are denying that there is accumulated sludge? What do you think the black stuff is?
So you are denying that there is accumulated sludge? What do you think the black stuff is?
The TRV fell off
- Thread starter Mr. Clueless
- Start date
So how do you think the sludge you say is in the system got to travel to the outside of it? If sludge had been able to get through the o-ring seal around the TRV needle, then large amounts of water would have come out as well. There's just been a small seepage of water around the needle which as caused some rust to form there.
Because of that seepage, ideally the complete TRV should be replaced, but if the OP doesn't want to do that, replacing the TRV head with a new one will probably suffice, though then they'll always be a risk of a larger leakage from this valve.
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Hell fire I didn't expect this.
Have we ever had a power flush? Yes. Can't remember when though. I'll say maybe 6 years ago?
Just to double check, the plumber was clanging & banging all the radiators. Sound like a power flush? After all this job he then installed a Magnaclean filter.
I did wonder about the corrosion in the first phot as to whether that's normal or not.
I don't know of any noticeable leak on that TRV although there are one or two rads which have that green crud around them which I think it supposed to be leakage? Again not massively so. I'll have a see tomorrow & come back here.
Regards the unscrewing as mentioned here, is it just a case of get an adjustable spanner & undo or what?
Reason I ask is when you scroll around videos & come across plumbing videos, the comments are always full of contradicting do this, don't do that & nobody agreeing on how it should be done.
Bit like this post here I suppose.
Am I supposed to hold the lower part tight while undoing that collar or should it be fine to just remove as I said with a pair of adjustables?
Have we ever had a power flush? Yes. Can't remember when though. I'll say maybe 6 years ago?
Just to double check, the plumber was clanging & banging all the radiators. Sound like a power flush? After all this job he then installed a Magnaclean filter.
I did wonder about the corrosion in the first phot as to whether that's normal or not.
I don't know of any noticeable leak on that TRV although there are one or two rads which have that green crud around them which I think it supposed to be leakage? Again not massively so. I'll have a see tomorrow & come back here.
Regards the unscrewing as mentioned here, is it just a case of get an adjustable spanner & undo or what?
Reason I ask is when you scroll around videos & come across plumbing videos, the comments are always full of contradicting do this, don't do that & nobody agreeing on how it should be done.
Bit like this post here I suppose.
Am I supposed to hold the lower part tight while undoing that collar or should it be fine to just remove as I said with a pair of adjustables?
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Not adjustables as they don’t have the required grip. Water pump pliers, mole grips or similar
OP,
Where are the signs of rust on the pin - there is a little green corrosion.
The tiny weeping leak will carry particles of sludge, & when the tiny amount of water evaporates it will leave the particles, these particles will accumulate over time.into the black sludgy stuff seen in the pic.
As my earlier post - best practice says replace the whole valve.
Perhaps you will pic any other crusty suspects plus the ones you mention?
Six years with a possibly unwashed filter, a failed TRV, & green crud at the rads suggests that the system might need professional attention.
Where are the signs of rust on the pin - there is a little green corrosion.
The tiny weeping leak will carry particles of sludge, & when the tiny amount of water evaporates it will leave the particles, these particles will accumulate over time.into the black sludgy stuff seen in the pic.
As my earlier post - best practice says replace the whole valve.
Perhaps you will pic any other crusty suspects plus the ones you mention?
Six years with a possibly unwashed filter, a failed TRV, & green crud at the rads suggests that the system might need professional attention.
If the rads all get hot throughout then no need for a powerflush.
However... A drain down and running cleaner through the system for a week, then draining again is always good maintenance.
PowerFlushing mini bore would not be fun.
However... A drain down and running cleaner through the system for a week, then draining again is always good maintenance.
PowerFlushing mini bore would not be fun.
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No need.
It's a real shame, just clean up the valve, change the head, and move on.
Good luck.
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Well thanks for your replies.
The disagreement in the thread is a little confusing for someone like me since I don't have a clue & therefore don't know which of you are correct & which aren't.
My guess is there's a mixture of - doing <this> will get you a TRV back in place & tick that box whereas others are coming in from an ideal/perfect way of handling it. Not necessarily incorrect but some may see it as overkill.
Or maybe my guess is incorrect. I've no idea.
I've just had a look & the system was powerflushed December 2017. Longer ago than I thought.
I remember this being done because the shower would go hot-cold-hot-cold. Something about a heat exchange springs to mind or I may be thinking about another time. Either way it got power flushed & had the Magnaclean fitted.
System was A-ok from then until earlier this year when the boiler sprang a leak. I forget the rate now, perhaps 2 litres per day. The invoice stated [Replaced return manifold, flow turbine pressure relief valve] at a cost of £500.
All radiators DO get hot. Although I wonder about 1 in particular...
A small 600x600 one in the kitchen. The rad itself gets hot but I've noticed this crap here which as I understand it means there's a leak here. I'm guessing a very small slow weep.
*************** So as to not make the squabbling worse, those 2 thumbnails are of a DIFFERENT rad to the one in the OP.
Also when looking in where the stop cock is...
Depending on the source when Googling, this again flags as leaking. Some sources say it's ok, leave it, others suggest I'm going to get flooded.
The house is a damp house anyway & all that is right in & about the flooring & not far at all from that will be the living room subfloor....
The living room is approx 7mtr x 3.5mtr with the underfloor being about a 1mtr drop. If we didn't have a sump pump in place then the natural water level in that void would sit at maybe about 0.5mtr-0.6mtr which over that area is a lot of water.
Now you may say this had sod all to do with the stop cock greenery. I'm just mentioning it in case it does.
The disagreement in the thread is a little confusing for someone like me since I don't have a clue & therefore don't know which of you are correct & which aren't.
My guess is there's a mixture of - doing <this> will get you a TRV back in place & tick that box whereas others are coming in from an ideal/perfect way of handling it. Not necessarily incorrect but some may see it as overkill.
Or maybe my guess is incorrect. I've no idea.
I've just had a look & the system was powerflushed December 2017. Longer ago than I thought.
I remember this being done because the shower would go hot-cold-hot-cold. Something about a heat exchange springs to mind or I may be thinking about another time. Either way it got power flushed & had the Magnaclean fitted.
System was A-ok from then until earlier this year when the boiler sprang a leak. I forget the rate now, perhaps 2 litres per day. The invoice stated [Replaced return manifold, flow turbine pressure relief valve] at a cost of £500.
All radiators DO get hot. Although I wonder about 1 in particular...
A small 600x600 one in the kitchen. The rad itself gets hot but I've noticed this crap here which as I understand it means there's a leak here. I'm guessing a very small slow weep.
*************** So as to not make the squabbling worse, those 2 thumbnails are of a DIFFERENT rad to the one in the OP.
Also when looking in where the stop cock is...
Depending on the source when Googling, this again flags as leaking. Some sources say it's ok, leave it, others suggest I'm going to get flooded.
The house is a damp house anyway & all that is right in & about the flooring & not far at all from that will be the living room subfloor....
The living room is approx 7mtr x 3.5mtr with the underfloor being about a 1mtr drop. If we didn't have a sump pump in place then the natural water level in that void would sit at maybe about 0.5mtr-0.6mtr which over that area is a lot of water.
Now you may say this had sod all to do with the stop cock greenery. I'm just mentioning it in case it does.
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That isn't going to happen, you only need to change the head. You can pay a plumber to check it if you are concerned.
The squabbling is down to ree .The Diynot troll who's been here for years . IF you report him to the mods you might get a result - I wouldn't hold my breath though.
OP,
Clues to your system difficulties were in your first pic hence my post #6.
The securing ring/collar is typically hand tight - dont use grips.
Why not ask the change the head posters why? why would they change the head?
Why not ask poster #24 how cleaning "up the valve" will rectify present problem & prevent future problems? Ask will it be a future of plumbers carrying spray bottles of "BANG" cleaner - OMG the future of plumbing is clear ... its clean.
Poster #24, the OP is kind of "concerned" - funny enough, thats why he started this thread: his concerns about the TRV (& dont forget the previous flooding leak). (And dont forget the crusty weeping fittings).
OP, nothing alarming but your system needs a professional heads up - afterwards you can make decisions.
FWIW: have you pushed in & operated the body & head pins?
Why not start a new thread ref the sub area damp and sump pump if thats also a concern.
Clues to your system difficulties were in your first pic hence my post #6.
The securing ring/collar is typically hand tight - dont use grips.
Why not ask the change the head posters why? why would they change the head?
Why not ask poster #24 how cleaning "up the valve" will rectify present problem & prevent future problems? Ask will it be a future of plumbers carrying spray bottles of "BANG" cleaner - OMG the future of plumbing is clear ... its clean.
Poster #24, the OP is kind of "concerned" - funny enough, thats why he started this thread: his concerns about the TRV (& dont forget the previous flooding leak). (And dont forget the crusty weeping fittings).
OP, nothing alarming but your system needs a professional heads up - afterwards you can make decisions.
FWIW: have you pushed in & operated the body & head pins?
Why not start a new thread ref the sub area damp and sump pump if thats also a concern.
Poster #29,
Well done, anything else?
FWIW: it didn't "fell off" - it was somehow snapped off.
Well done, anything else?
FWIW: it didn't "fell off" - it was somehow snapped off.
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