Fitting bearing in a cast iron brake drum

[RickH]

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I have an SBS trailer, that uses AlKo braked hubs - with sealed parallel bearings.
One of the bearings needs replacing.
By a bit of warming up of the drum, and use of a large socket was able to drift out the old bearing.

I need to fit new bearing, with no risk of damage.

I don’t have an hydraulic press, the idea of trying to drift it in with a hammer & socket, is not an option I fancy.

The only other option I can think of is a long enough bolt, passing 5hrough bearing, some nuts and a plate, and try and wind the bearing in using the large socket to press the bearing in.
Apart from putting some heat in the cast iron, and putting bearing in the fridge, to ease ‘winding in’. ……not had any better idea.
Anybody had to do a similar job ?

 

[Mottie]

Could you not just take it to your local garage and ask them to press it in for you for the price of a pint?

 

[Stivino]

Youtube has some videos that might help.

 

[RickH]

Could you not just take it to your local garage and ask them to press it in for you for the price of a pint?

If I knew a local garage I’d happily do that.

 

[RickH]

Youtube has some videos that might help.

Already tried YouTube, only one showed up which was hitting it in with club hammer … just can’t risk damage to bearing.

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

The only other option I can think of is a long enough bolt, passing 5hrough bearing, some nuts and a plate, and try and wind the bearing in using the large socket to press the bearing in.

I've done that plenty of times with the kids scooter wheel bearings, which are a PITA to change. Just need to make sure you're all square to start with otherwise it's no fun trying to remove a bearing that's started to go in on the skew.

 

[stevie888]

I'd use the freezer rather than the fridge and use a bit or emery paper on the edge of the hub recess to mke sure there's no hint of a lip then go for it. Set your stall out properly and do a dry run first.

Do I understand you're only going to change 1 bearing of 2? I'd suggest that's false economy, plus you can stick the hub in the oven if its just a lump of iron and get a decent differential expansion. I did a starter ring on to a flywheel this way years ago and I'd suggest that would be a tighter interference fir than a bearing.

 

[Tigercubrider]

Freeze the bearing for several hours at least.
I can’t tell if the housing is removed from the trailer? If you can bung it an oven, heat it. If that’s too risky, domestically, a bucket of boiling water helps.
Or a hot air gun?
I’d use a threaded rod and draw the bearing in.
However, if time is on your side, try dropping it in first.
However, dropping it in May heat the bearing so you need to re freeze it.
I guess these pipe freezing kits might help.

Have all the bits that you need (and more) to hand as the freezing/warming doesn’t allow for hanging around

 

[RickH]

I did a slight mix of technique, here is detail for anybody that needs to do this in future.

Broke away the inner races of old bearing to leave just the outer shell, put a slot across it with a slitting disk in an angle grinder

Put new Bearing in a sealed bag in Freezer overight -18C
Use a flap wheel to make sure top of casting was smooth, this is above the Circclip ring so, no impact to mating surface.
Warmed up core of hub to 100C, used a MAPP gas torch and a laser temp gun.

Bearing slid into the hub with just a slight pressure from my thumb, then using the outer shell of old bearing as a drift, just needed a couple of taps to seat it fully home.

Wasn't sure how it would work, but all went easy enough.