Help installing shower tray waste

Is that the only way it will run GM? Could you do-away with that waste pipe and run it parallel with the joists to outside then run pipework to the hopper head/soil or whatever you have outside?

As seco says, running the waste through the joists restricts your fall and can be a swine to get right anyway! It can also compromise the integrity of the joists especially if you start 'elongating' the holes to try and achieve a better fall.
 
Is that the only way it will run GM? Could you do-away with that waste pipe and run it parallel with the joists to outside then run pipework to the hopper head/soil or whatever you have outside?

As seco says, running the waste through the joists restricts your fall and can be a swine to get right anyway! It can also compromise the integrity of the joists especially if you start 'elongating' the holes to try and achieve a better fall.

To get the waste to an outside wall would mean going through the joists anyway, or having them boxed in running along the floor and that was he we don't want, hence going through joists.

I now know why it was leaking - the trap was not sat flush under the tray. The force of the connecting waste pipe was pushing the trap up at the exit end, hence the opposite end was not watertight. I think I may install the trap again, then use some sort of flexible connector to connect to the waste pipe (if I can find one). I may have to elongate the hole in the joists slightly to raise the end to create the fall.
 
If you are worried that making the holes bigger to help create enough fall might bring the shower crashing down into the room below, you could always revert to plan B.

Thats a weekly event where you take your shower but with one foot over the waste outlet to stop the water running away, a flannel between your foot and the outlet make an adequate seal.

When the water level rises to within a gnats wisker of overflowing, slide your foot and flannel to one side, this enable a good flow of water to run through the waste pipe.

Its been suprisingly successful for a lot of "just moved into the house" customers I have, in that it helps prevent a build up of soap and hair in the pipe. :wink:

Tim
 
If you are worried that making the holes bigger to help create enough fall might bring the shower crashing down into the room below, you could always revert to plan B.

Thats a weekly event where you take your shower but with one foot over the waste outlet to stop the water running away, a flannel between your foot and the outlet make an adequate seal.

When the water level rises to within a gnats wisker of overflowing, slide your foot and flannel to one side, this enable a good flow of water to run through the waste pipe.

Its been suprisingly successful for a lot of "just moved into the house" customers I have, in that it helps prevent a build up of soap and hair in the pipe. :wink:

Tim

Are you suggesting we only shower once a week there or once a week we do as you suggest. I have to frig with the pipework anyway as the pipework is too close to the trap putting too much pressure on it. This is not letting the trap sit flush undermeath the tray and is leaking.
 
This is a digram of the trap by the way

JT-M1000Q--T2.gif


The black rubber body washer was under the tray on top of the body. There is no washer which goes between the waste apperture and the actual shower tray, does it need a bead of silicone on the tray? The apperture screws into the trap body so if I applied silicone I would probably let it go off before tightening the apperture?
 
yes put a bead of silicone but do it up straight away, it doesn't take long to go off then try it.
 
yes put a bead of silicone but do it up straight away, it doesn't take long to go off then try it.

Would it be best to put silicone on both sides, i.e. put a bead on the underside of the apperture on the tray iself and then on top of the rubber washer underneath?
 

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