Recent content by AaronHarvey

I should also mention, the flat area of the ceiling isn't flat roof and does lead into the loft as normal, so that small area is covered with loft insulation. Cutting a hole in the pir here won't lead into an open gap, and the downlight will be suitable to to covered. It's just sloped areas...

I have seen these lights but there's still the question of cutting to allow wires and possibly drivers for the lights

I'm hoping someone can shed some clear light on this topic. Theres lots of discussion online but seems to be very much a grey area with no clear answer. We've had approval to build a new ensuite in the master bedroom. Part of the ceiling is sloped/vaulted with no insulation. As part of the...

I'd assume the correct method would be to insulate between rafters with foam board(celotex or similar), leaving space for air flow behind, then over board with insulated PB?

I only plan on changing the timber cladding like for like. Just wanted to know the correct way to insulate behind if possible.

Thanks, and they have been contacted. I'm not tallest so I would probably manage, but anyone 6ft + might have difficulty haha We have a little room to make it wider than the 1m I've currently measured out, but obviously this starts to eat away at bedroom space. They're not currently...

Can anyone shed anymore light on this? I'm in our similar situation. The timber cladding on our 70's home as seen better days and needs replacing. I was hoping to insulate behind if possible when replacing this year. Would it be breeze block, vapour barrier, battens, 50mm celetox or similar...

We are currently planning and designing a new en-suite in our master bedroom. This is an entirely new room as there is no ensuite already. The ceiling along the back, longest wall is sloped with the lowest point being around 5ft. Is there any regulations regarding minimum height/headspace...

Just had a measure, its 150mm thick

Its cement/fire board. Put there by the plumbers to cap the flue when they removed the boiler last year.

We're looking to open up a cupboard space in the kitchen. Made up for 4 brick walls, which used to house the original heating system. Concrete pad sitting on top of the brickwork below ceiling level. (Just above the vent for reference) Chimney sits on the concrete and continues through rest...

Nothing inside the single box. Just filled with plaster. One knockout removed on the left hand side so may have been another outlet next to it before the double was put in.

To anyone that may have been curious. Sparkwright was right. I have tested both old and new cables for continuity and it is a ring off a ring. A figure of 8. I'll re-connect properly as above. Thanks for all the help.

Bump. Anyone have any advice on how much we can remove without the need for structural support?

Oh sorry, I haven't knocked any of that out so I wouldn't know. I assumed nothing as it had been filled in.