Recent content by big-all

ok a panel say 300mm wide covered in board will in effect be the equivilent off a diagonal timber corner to corner so give you the triagulation needed to support the wall and help prevent racking clear as mudd ehh :giggle:

its not the strength or the number off the timber its passing the load to the ground diagonally via bracing as any right angle joint is simply a stiff to very stiff pivot point somthing like 300 to 600mm covered top to bottom with sheet wood at atleast 2 points may be sufficient i dont know...

as an aside on the finished structure you ideally need a decent bit off wall each side off the doors to give diagonal support to avoid racking all depends on doors you plan on using as to how much support is needed but big hinged doors need a lot off support

just for clarity spacings are centre off one joists to the other as denoted by C/L [centre line]this will give around 50mm less between joists so 400mm is around 350mm face to face you also need to work out iff its metric or imperial as metric is 400mm C/L or imperial will be 16" or 406mm...

indeed it is ....sometimes you can do noggins at 400mm and studs at 406 or visa versa to accomodate imperial sheet material one side and metric the other to reduce strips cut off for example outside shiplap so 400 studs inside8x4 ply/osb sheets so 406 noggins or on a roof with plasterboard...

sheet material is mostly imperial as in 8ft by 4ft or 1220x2440 so 406/610mm centres have a look at your tape it will often be marked at 16" 406mm centres and 400mm centres with a diamond or triangle planks on the other hand tend to metric lengths

indeed all ryobi batteries fit all tools but there is a slight difference with the newer rb 1840/1850x and bigger amps [Ryobi/18v/5ah] batteries if you look at the back off the stem there are 2 further contact allowing higher powerdraw for selective tools like the belt sander that will still...

5mm out off square is zero in reallity[+5 and-5 as you average out] it may be 100% square but a small dip or rize mid point corner to corner can also cause a wrong reading

greatly in your favour is far more likly to be still air under the floor so a far far lower problem with condensation as any air leak and condensation will tend to be minimum at the floor with low heat at the floor compared to the roof where the maximum heat reaches under the timber and maximum...

Just ignore my brain fog comments above as usual I didn't fully read all the comments in sequence so misunderstood lol

Just looked mines is fully forward on the front slot I would look at cutting the bolt down and no more than a thin washer or no washer at all iff space is tight I have just looked at the picture and unless I am having brain fog the saw positioning on the slot will make zero difference as its...

general comments you really want the saw table bed to be more central as in forward perhaps 50mm/2" to 100mm/4"so when you push a bit off timber onto the fence its more stable my fence on my dw712 lines up with the beam back egde i fitted my dewalt saw to the clamps perhaps 15 to 18 years ago...

just go to order medication on line a week or so before you need it and any requiring reveiw will say something like "require to be reveiwed by a medical profesional before reissue"

unless you use stainless in contact with an oak knob the tannin will rot /rust the steel very quickly with the horrible streaks with connected metal and gravity marking the path off the resultant decay in a black smear groundwards the greater the wet and level or damp the quicker the the decay...

1907 been in the house for more than 1/3 off its existance