Recent content by BlueMoonMole

Its not how the Manufacturer states it should be done. So BG don't. And how do you propose to test the gas valve outlet?

You have done very well fault finding so far, most people give up at the clock... You're on the right lines... You select Heating ON and 240vac is sent to your Room Stat. Your Room Stat requires heat and sends 240vac to your CH 2Port. The valve recieves power and a synchron motor inside...

Your expansion vessel needs repressurising.

Continuity across the coil? 230v to L and N? Remove vent cap and see if a lot of water comes out or a dribble... More water can indicate the impeller is becoming detatched Alternatively remove vent cap and stick a screwdriver in... does it spin easily? Can you stop it spinning when on?

Have you got 230v at the mains connector? Do you have continuity across the harness to the display? If you don't have a multimeter, you're screwed.

The thermistors are 10kOHM Part number Halstead 500-590. They work in series, so COULD be the cause. Check the resistances first... if not you'll need a gas engineer

For what it'd cost you in time abd money, I'd look at fixed price repairs... The manifold is easy to take out but you will need a full washer kit because you never get the washers you need. The noise and high pressure sound like a circulation problem Possibly your pump. Private RGI...

British Gas £99 one off fee and £20 a month for 12 months... Works out less than Worcester and you get 11 months more cover aswell... Oh and you dont pay it all at once, its direct debit. just saying.

Report him. If you are still having problems after you've sorted the pipework, it could be the magnetic flow switch assembly. They're about £60 and take 20 minutes to install. Turn off the water, open your hot&cold taps, unscrew it, grease up the new one and screw it in. Et voila!

Did he at any poi remove the fan and look at the heat exchanger? There's a few things he should check/change everything he works on an isar Ionization Probes & Spark Electrode... Both fail regularly

1. Turn off power to Boiler 2. Remove fuse from fused spur 3. Call Registered Gas Engineer You're already breaking the law my friend, and putting yourself and your family at risk of potential Carbon Monoxide poisoning, as well as potentially electrocuting yourself in the process. Please...

It's certainly the wrong time to be leaving ANY job, especially attempting to enter an entirely different trade, which is becoming increasingly competetive. Your best bet is to concentrate on something your good at, already. If you were capable of being a good Plumber/Gas Fitter etc. etc...

More likely a blocked injector, get it services and request they clean/check the injector and get a gasket for the gas valve handy, incase it falls apart like most do... This is a job for a registered engineer though. Do not try it yourself.

For time-served, read experienced. In reality, an NVQ takes 3 years, as there isn't much point in doing less than an NVQ level 3... On top of that, expect to struggle through your first 3-4 years on your own. So, starting at 16, doing 3 years - your 19, then your slowly gaining that...

With the problem being related to combustion (i.e. your removing the case to remedy it) I'd recommend getting a RGI to look at it. To the experienced engineer, its relatively simple. I, personally, do not recommend you attempt to fix this problem yourself, as there are some safety checks...