Recent content by bullethead123

Thanks Gas. No worries CBW.

I hadn't intended to change the rad valves

After turning off the filling loop, I popped off the boiler cover and the highest point where I could see dripping was from the bottom of the expansion vessell (red in the photo).

Having taken a rad off and closed the valves (one is a thermostatic valve) which are still connected to the pipes, I'm trying to recharge the system via the filler loop but water is just dripping from the boiler. No water is coming out of either valve though. Anyone got an idea about what's...

Hi CBW, could you elaborate on why the extensions wouldn't work?

Thanks very much Oldbuffer. You're quite correct re the length. Thanks for the advice. I've got another problem though. Having taken the rad off and closed the valves (one is a thermostatic valve) which are still connected to the pipes, I'm trying to recharge the system via the filler loop but...

Hi, I have an odd sized radiator I need to change. I gurss it's a really old imperial sized rad, slightly more than 5' 2" long and 23 inches high.would I be right in thinking I should go for a 1200mm x 600mm model and use longer tails as a replacement?

Anyone got an idea how to disassemble this tap? Need to change the washers but can't see how to get at the innards. Tried using a 20mm spanner on the chromed 'nut' parts of the body of each tap valve but they won't budge. Don't want to use too much force and break something. Perhaps I'm missing...

Thanks Mike. I get your point about flexibility. I imagine that, in time, a stiff epoxy 'seal' would detatch itself from one or other of the pieces of worktop and thus trap water near to the faulty joint which would only exacerbate the problem. You mention Hardmann as a source for flexible...

No. The problem is where the 2 pieces of worktop are jointed. Perhaps this enlarged picture is more clear.

Hi all, The kitchen in my new flat is great but there is a problem with a raised joint seam near the sink. If you expand the pic you'll see it. What's the best way to protect from more damage through further water ingress? My first thought was to mix up some clear epoxy and 'seal' with that but...

Thanks all, you've confirmed what I thought to be the case.

In order to get an open (not blind) corner cabinet in, I've got to cut down one side of a cabinet significantly. This will reduce the service void gap. I guess running the pipe inside the cabinet is the way to go.

Guess that means running the pipe inside the cabinet then

Hi all, I'm gonna fit a kitchen that needs the service gap behind the units reduced to about 20mm. Can I use a waste pipe of that diameter to discharge the waste water?