Recent content by cypher007

thanks all. so essentially there was no point in upgrading the feed to our new unvented and the HW run to 22mm as the 4 inch bit of 15mm thats on the main plastic will limit the flow?

need advice on best way to connect to old plastic water main pipe. house was built in 1967 and has oddly 2 stop cocks. id like to go from the 20mm black plastic pipe to 22mm copper. but the plumber recons the internal is only about 15mm maybe. so hes gone from the plastic to 15mm copper then to...

i had looked at that but it means changing a valve. i think someone on hear some years ago had a way of doing it using a relay and the cylinder sensor, which the boiler only sees when the relay contact opens.

currently have an intergas boiler on an OV S plan setup. i want to add the intergas outside air temp sensor and cylinder temp sensor and then wire to suit the current 2 valve setup. any wiring plans or guides please. p.s. want hot water as priority, so i can have different flow temps.

what would be the best most energy efficient units I could put in at the most cost effective price point? don't want to spend a fortune trying to get that last little bit of heat retention if it wont make that much difference.

p.s. I like the pug crank39. ive got a phantom pro 3, don't think it would lift a pug though.

ok this is nuts. the door is only maybe 6 years old. think when the nice weather arrives ill take the panel out and have a go at repositioning the glass then use some expanding foam round the edges to hold it in place. ill leave it laid flat while the foam hardens.

we have some perfectly usable upvc units with double glazing that has what looks like double the old single row of holes type beading between the panes, sorry for not knowing the actual thickness. anyway is it possible and presumably cheaper to just replace the glass with something like argon...

got a upvc front door with a nice arch in white plastic. trouble is the square double glazed glass has dropped, and exposed the fact its actually only held in place by double sided tape and a bit of silicone to seal it. ive briefly spoken to a window company who when I described the issue said...

I did reply to the thread today. but the only reply ive had is to change it to a mid port system. so if I do this will it, if my theory is correct, give me time control and power control.

this has been partially solved on this thread: http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/forum1/intergas-hre-24-best-setup-with-existing-s-plan-t82080.html what I need to know is if I'm on the right track by using a relay as described by Razor, but with the difference in that I wonder if its possible...

your guess is as good as mine. we moved in nearly a year ago, and didn't find much evidence of servicing. when I had the cover off I found no end of crap laid in it. how much should a service cost? would they take the covers off the heat exchanger and check its not full of crap also? oh...

forgot to mention since using the x400, and leaving it in the system permanently the kettling seems to have all but gone, just has a wheezing sound now bit like a kettle just starting up.

some on here may remember the problem of the kettling rs250. well today I did some gas consumption tests. this has flagged up a possible cause for the slow heatup, kettling, and crazy temps on the bottom of the heat exchanger but no where else. ive checked the manual and as follows...

ah will need to update my Dad, as I told him this morning about the WC sensor being part of the setup. Dan do you fit WC on yours?