Recent content by daKlone

Sorry guys, my memory is not good enough to recall the exact hue of the pump I removed 3 years ago :giggle: Don't think it matters too much now though, does it?

Interesting. I note that on the Screwfix website the Grundfos has a 1 year warranty, but on other sites (such as Toolstation) it says 5 years...anyone know which is right?

UPS3 15-50/65 130

No, I guess not but I'm struggling to imagine what sort of issue takes almost exactly a year to damage a pump. Exactly. I had one on the boiler for at least 12 years (the old orange ones) but have since had 2 (shortly to be 3 I'm guessing) in just over 3 years. Hence I wonder if quality has...

Is it just me being unlucky or are Grundfos pumps very unreliable? I've had two only just last a year and a third now playing up, also just over a year old. Is there something better I could use?

So I checked the motor and it was fine. Just in case it helps someone else in the future, they use permanent split capacitor motors, so there's no brushes. The two phases each measured 23R, and 46R across them both, so no shorts or open circuits. No obvious damage, scorching or the like...

Thanks, I'll have a look

My Beko DRCS68W drum stopped turning, so I checked the belt but it is fine. Discovered that the motor was stalled, and with a bit of encouragement it would start to move the drum. With the belt disconnected the motor turns fine. Checked the drum bearings around the door and they were shot...

OK, so the minimum flow rate I measured at 2.57 l/m, so I would say that the manual is correct. What happens with the burner and DHW temperature (at minimum flow) is this: Burner starts, water increases from cold (~18C) to 48C. Burner stops, water increases to 53C. Burner starts, water drops...

According to the manual, the minimum working flow rate for DHW is 2.5 l/m, but I will give it a test. I'll try to check the temperature control but obviously it's tricky to measure water temperature accurately. I would have hoped that it would work properly no matter the flow rate!

Funny you should say that, as in my loft there is a HW cylinder that is not connected to anything, so it seems to me that it is highly likely that the problem is just as you describe. Is there any way to easily identify the culprit pipe? Is it likely to be the only "capped off" pipe up there?

Well..I'll..be..dipped! :D Left the PCB for a while and then ran the hairdryer over it for a few minutes. Didn't see any water running out, but blow me if it didn't pop back into life when I put it back in. The venturi/diaphragm seems to have helped enormously. I can run the downstairs cold...

It hadn't, no. But it did look old (probably the original) and the spring was a bit corroded, so I thought "why not"...at least that's one thing ruled out. Plus there's not much point in asking for advice and then ignoring it, is there ;)

Yeah, that's what I thought initially. I've taken the PCB out and it's not wet at all. I will give it a try though, just in case there's some water under a component anywhere. I don't suppose anyone has a circuit diagram for this PCB do they?

I replaced the venturi and diverter valve diaphragm with no problems, switched it back on...and now it won't fire up at all. :mad: It's flashing "Flame Fault" and "Safety Thermostat" now. Safety thermostat is not tripped (i.e. the contact is closed) and the wire from the PCB to the safety...