Recent content by dav

Technically all drilled holes on a joist should be made in the middle or neutral axis, notches etc on top away from the edges. The hole drilled should be no more than .25 diameter of the depth of the joist so your joist is around 144-46mm in depth a quarter of that is maximum diameter of your...

In theory the 2.6ah would last you longer not sure about the power, you'd need to look at the torque ratings etc for each drill. From my experience and that of others I know (carpenters) Makita generally make pretty robust and reliable drills, whereas Dewalt feedback I have heard is variable...

The Bosch SDS drill is a cracker and will do what it says - will serve you well. Personally I would still go Makita on the cordless front over Dewalt but thats my opinion for what its worth. Blue Bosch second and then Dewalt third.

Didn't Bahco buy/merge with Sandvik, who once produced first rate tools and used Swedish Iron ore - best in the world. That's where the best sheffield foundaries would have gotten their ore from hence sheffield steels rep. My tool shop is one of the last of the old breed shops and know their...

Go to a tool hire shop and tell them what you want to do - you'll want a minimum 25j breaker/hammer, Bosch GSH11E is a hire favourite. I take it its conrete you'll be removing?

Many Thanks - yes in this case I'll go with the customer. Just interested in the experts views on the product. WYL Flooring is not my main area - 2nd fix carpenter. I don't normally float solid T&G although I know that this is becoming more and more common.

Many Thanks WYL no its a living room and hallway. Environment is stable, no underfloor heating etc.. The only reason I was to use woodloc/click would be due to customers wishes and their budget - its a largish area and I would charge more if laying tongue and groove. I have laid Kahrs many...

Customer wants engineered oak laid. Was going to use Kahrs, but am curious as to the new Parador woodloc/click system for solid oak, apparently this is a first, seems its the best of both worlds i.e. can be floated and clicked together and is solid wood. The underside of the floor has been...

Many Thanks Paul, not great then. May consider the Panasonic cordless saw now.

Firstly I have the 18v makita and its a great tool, as other's have said I wouldn't be without it. I have also found the little blue Bosch 10.8v mini drill/driver a great tool. Paul I posted about the Makita 18v lion kit got one reply but still not sure, like the weight, and convenience, but...

Generally use screwfix gold or sometimes turbo gold. Also use Reisser screws which I find better for hardwoods and when screwing into endgrain and/or very close to the end/edge.

Already have 18v Makita drills and impact driver (NiMH batteries). Initailly the new 18v lion Makita drill, jigsaw and Circular saw looked good - like the weight, 22 min charge time and battery properties, but have seen a post about someone who went for these reporting that they were gutless...

As long as the nails are driven flush and not into or countersunk into the cedar I think you should be fine. Ultimately for the job a Paslode stapler would be the ideal choice imo but would have limited use for the other projects.

Screwfix are currently doing a deal on the Pasode IM350 (First fix gas nailer). 70 odd quid off at £295 with a couple of boxes of nails thrown in (worth over £40) which include 51mm galvanised ring shank nails which will be ok for the cedar. The paslode is the nailer for studwork and decking...

Obviously you make the outline of the hinge recesss to be cut with a marking knife or marking gauge and chisel whichever you use. Then you set the depth of the plane blade to the thickness of the hinge then start from the outside of the door with the plane working in - so your first "cut" will...