Recent content by davidmiller

As in 100mm? Not 440mm with an l shape pad -on the outside skin.

Ok, sounds like a few inches longer beam would be a good idea. Thanks.

Yes I've been looking at prices for them. Was wondering if the beam should or shouldn't have a longer bearing on the pad?

Yes. Thanks

Like it. Ta

Hello. I'm talking about 25mm to 22mm. I've found a stop tap made by hep that does it but it seems to be very rare and most places don't seem to sell it. Any suggestions?

I'm guessing that's a piece welded to the beam and not a mold?

I agree about moving the wall. Think the steel being on the very edge is a bit weird though I can only think of throwing mortar in there.

Yes full plans but the the engineer is a piece of work. If I have to I'll move the wall in, 8 inches seems the norm I suppose?

He only specified the beams and padstones as 440 size. He doesn't seem to give a lot of detail on anything. He knows it's flush across though

Wanted to check if the method on the drawing attached is ok. It's for a wall going across the back of a side extension flush with the back of the existing but doesn't feel completely right as it's not in the middle of the padstone.

Oh you mean a 4x2 on top of the blocks?

Thanks people. To give a little update I actually spoke to the seller because they pushed their luck a little bit with the description. We agreed a partial refund so we both did ok considering. It'll give me a few pounds to fix it if there's no other problems. Thanks

Thanks everyone, a few different opinions but it seems no one likes the sitting it on the blocks option which suits me. By the way I take it carpenters are getting plenty is work at the moment because it's hard to get anyone to even quote for cutting a roof on this area.

Light weight. Celcon or thermolite.