Recent content by dazlight

The best click on the market is floorify with their underlay. No heat problems they say.

have know a few fitters to do it over the years but bad idea imo. You won’t get a full bond as the adheisve can’t soak in and would sit ontop so a weak bond. But if you want to gamble use F46 and trowel on then flatten adheisve with a medium pile paint roller sleeve. For my heat tiles and pull...

Ardex A46 Rapid repair or ardex NA .

22mm / 25mm ring nails or screws.

We have gone over weak sub floors like that a few times. I did a video / picture thing on you tube of one we did. Works well. You could use a few types of penetrating epoxy primers Fball SRS Uzin PE425 Ardex PSRS

as it’s a floating floor going down you should be ok.

Should of been a epoxy liquid Dpm like fball F77 , ardex DPM1c

Wow that sounds well to high to soon. Most screeds I’ve worked with it’s 14 days and 1° a day to dry it out. But I’d say max 18° as the screed is still curing. Is it cement based or gypsum ?

Best way is to use Jumpax and glue the LVT straight to that.

Go over the screed that’s down now. Just fill any holes with ardex a46

You would be building up 1mm

Fill any holes , f78 3 coats , then underlay, timbermate excel or similar No need to dig it all up.

Yeah, 2 x 10kg would be what was needed to put it down at the right microns. We tend to paint it on the bricks as well. If just laminate I’d prob fill in the holes and put 3 coats of ardex MVS / fball F78 moisture suppressant Or if money is ok go F77 all over. 14kg. Or use a good vapour...

The protimeter is just to get an initial reading of where to drill the holes or place a hydrometer box. How many m2 is the job ?

Ardex rep were 250-400 ? Wasn’t a RH reading taken ?