Recent content by dazlight

Sand and cement with a visqueen sheet under it to the level of the asphalt then top it off with ardex DPM1c epoxy or similar making sure you overlap it to the asphalt

Loads to pick from. I’d use the same as the screed you buy. Ardex Mapei Fball Uzin Bostik Tilemaster

Then you will need a liquid Dpm doing. So my order would be - Plywood wood areas Self level with a moisture tolerant company like ardex Na to the level of the plywood Apply a epoxy Dpm to the screed Prime & Self level ( smoothing compound ) to the whole area at 5mm

You need to uplift all the tiles. Plywood the wood sections with 6mm flooring grade plywood . How old is the sub floor? Does it have a visqueen Dpm under it

A right pain fixing the, as they look like T&G floorboards. To stop the creaks you would need to pva glue every joint. You could multi tool each joint in the bad areas but have to be careful doing that.

LVT click need’s a complete flat floor and expansion all around.

That sika is decent. Mapei ultrabond eco is good and low price but runny.

Quickstep capture is the best looking lamainte on the market. Timbermate excel is the best underlay.

Depending on the damp you need to control it. We always go ardex na to smooth the floor then Ardex DPM1c Or take the tiles up and get asphalt put down at 20mm

A lot less than half. 5% I’d say. You better with F41 Tack adhesive

6” x 6” for me.

Every new build is chip board. Pain in the ass. Always squeak problems in the future. 18mm 22mm floorboards screwed are a lot better.

Nothing I’ve seen to change the colour.

To stop the latex you can use sand as a bridge which we do quite often. Has the sub floor got a visqueen Dpm ? If the house is build before 1980 I’d be going with ardex na , DPM1c , ardex na A Dpm butty.

Hardboard then. So you need to get that all up to check the floorboards.