Recent content by direstaits

just noticed that the pipe keeps wiggling is way free from the bracket on the wall, when it does, the pipe gets knocked off line with the thread (its now disconnected from the thread) and leaves the 5-6mm gap height wise, as well as perhaps 2-3mm width wise. pop the pipe back into the holder and...

in place of the nut that joins to the thread? Don't really fancy that, lol not very plumbing minded... any type of connector that i could fit to the thread and then attach the metal nut to the other end?

what do you suggest for that? is there some kind of extension i can get to 'join' the two?

It springs downwards slightly, and needs a little push up to connect the nut and thread, they are not bang below each other. Connection doesn't move when sat on toilet that i can tell, the water leak didn't increase when sat on toilet

if it is fully unscrewed so the pipe separates from the flush valve thread... probably about 5-6mm from the thread

What would you suggest?

damn... Only changed the valve a few months ago :(

Photos of the setup (very cramped downstairs toilet) the width of the pipe with the isolator is about the room between cistern and wall for tightening /loosening the nut.[/img]

hex nut as it joins to plastic thread

Isolator valve, pipe on left goes upstairs, pipe on right into toilet cistern

Inlet pipe coming down from upstairs

as far as i can see, yes. It is a bottom entry float valve, if that makes any difference?

Have had a whole host of trouble with the toilet recently, mostly leaking from the hex nut that joins the inlet pipe to the ball valve (metal nut to plastic thread) First replaced the fibre washer in the nut, as it had corroded, everything seemed ok, then about a year later, same problem...

Thanks, Will go pick a pair up tomorrow. Do you think the washer will be standard size, or could it be a special? The house was built in 1953, and i believe the bath and taps are original.

Hi, here is a picture of the tap with head taken off.