leaking from inlet pipe on toilet

[direstaits]

Have had a whole host of trouble with the toilet recently, mostly leaking from the hex nut that joins the inlet pipe to the ball valve (metal nut to plastic thread)

First replaced the fibre washer in the nut, as it had corroded, everything seemed ok, then about a year later, same problem. changed washer again as it had gone funny. reconnected but still leaking. Figured the nut may have crossthreaded the plastic of the ball valve, or cracked it, so replaced that. Everything seemed ok. Came this morning to a steady dripping from the same area yet again. Tightened the nut ever so slightly, and the drip turned into a trickle, water is currently isolated so as so stop any floods of the loo.

The pipe is solid all the way(no flexi hose)

 

[seco services]

is the pipe inline with the float valve, ie no tension on the pipe ?

 

[TicklyT]

Does the tap connector on the rigid pipework line up nicely with the plastic tail of the ball valve?

Ideally, it should just lightly nip the washer in place, nice and square all the way round without engaging the nut on the tail. Doing that whilst just supporting the weight of the last piece of pipe from a nearby pipe clip is also acceptable.

If the pipe needs to be sprung to engage the tap connetor, or it is out of square when engaged, or the pipework is so poorly supported that most of the weight is hanging from the connector, it is an almost certain recipe for a leak.

Taps and ball valves with brass tails were more tolerant of such abuse, because it was possible to tighten the nut on the tap connector a lot more to force the components into alignment without damaging the threads.

 

[direstaits]

as far as i can see, yes. It is a bottom entry float valve, if that makes any difference?

 

[direstaits]

Inlet pipe

• direstaits
• 14 Aug 2010
• 1

Inlet pipe coming down from upstairs

isolator valve

• direstaits
• 14 Aug 2010
• 1

Isolator valve, pipe on left goes upstairs, pipe on right into toilet cistern

hex nut and thread

• direstaits
• 14 Aug 2010
• 1

hex nut as it joins to plastic thread

Photos of the setup (very cramped downstairs toilet)

the width of the pipe with the isolator is about the room between cistern and wall for tightening /loosening the nut.[/img]

 

[JayJay1978]

No wonder it leaks, its cross threaded to hell!

The plastic thread on that bottom entry will be damaged now, get a new fibre washer and a Fluidmaster pro fill valve with a brass tail and redo it.

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/81274/Plumbing/Toilet-Fittings/Fluidmaster-Pro-Bottom-Entry-Fill-Valve

 

[direstaits]

damn...

Only changed the valve a few months ago

 

[seco services]

even if it did screw on straight the pipe must have tension on it.

 

[direstaits]

even if it did screw on straight the pipe must have tension on it.

What would you suggest?

 

[seco services]

how close is that fitting to the bottom of the float valve thread when the nuts unscrewed ?

 

[JayJay1978]

When you slacken the brass nut off does the copper inlet pipe spring back and do you have to force it back up to the plastic tail in order to tighten it up?

Also when you sit on the toilet is it loose? Does the inlet connection move when you sit down?

Edit: Yes what Seco said.

 

[direstaits]

if it is fully unscrewed so the pipe separates from the flush valve thread... probably about 5-6mm from the thread

 

[direstaits]

When you slacken the brass nut off does the copper inlet pipe spring back and do you have to force it back up to the plastic tail in order to tighten it up?

Also when you sit on the toilet is it loose? Does the inlet connection move when you sit down?

Edit: Yes what Seco said.

It springs downwards slightly, and needs a little push up to connect the nut and thread, they are not bang below each other. Connection doesn't move when sat on toilet that i can tell, the water leak didn't increase when sat on toilet

 

[seco services]

so when you attach it back to the float valve and lift the pipe
your also pulling against the pipe at the bottom where it gos back up the wall.

if you disconnected the isolation valve at the bottom and then fitted the nut on the float valve the pipe will more likely be 5mm to high to get back in the isolation valve.

in other words the pipe from the floor to the float valve is slightly to short.

 

[direstaits]

what do you suggest for that? is there some kind of extension i can get to 'join' the two?