Recent content by emerylloyd

Its possible the gas main would run 22mm up to the point at which is turns up and out of the floor. This would be fine depending on the proposed size (KW rating) of the new boiler. Worse case is the gas main is 22mm until it splits to feed the kitchen where it runs 15mm from this point...

If the flow screed is being poured for ground floor completely, or at least the kitchen and hall together I can't see any issues. For me I'd say a join at the kitchen/hall meeting point may possibly cause an issue with any settlement but a smarter guy than I should answer that!

Not condoning the work shown above, the compression joint in the wall is a big no for me, a risk that would leak after the process of fitting the radiator and it's valves. As for having push fit under the floor this is 100% normal and I'm a bit taken aback as to the negativity towards it. Over...

When buying kit like this I always use well known brands both for reliability and future parts.

IMO (sorry for cr*p formatting) Assumptions: 1) All the above, plus the boiler are able to be daisy chained for eBUS (i can insert two sets of wires in the same connection allowing eBUS to be linked onwards (see diagram). Correct. 2) Using a VR10 sensor that comes with the VR71 this can be...

It's best to buy a heat pump compatible hot water cylinder because it has a larger coil to offer better heat transfer. That's not to say you cannot use a standard cylinder, it may take longer to heat the water and may need a buffer vessel depending on system volume.

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Dan_Robinson Agile: Sorry guys, fan speed was a little far fetched, hadn't realised that Vaillant had not attended. I don't know if I'm messing with forum royalty(?), but so far, Dan has suggested the by-pass, not bad. Agile pops in with the D.0, presume he knows size of property...

Wiring fault or plumber may have tempered with fan speed (dependant on skill) and turned it up instead of down. Fan speed settings are back to front, up is down, down is up. I had a vaillant engineer do this to me. IMO respectively.

Which controls have been used OP?

Without seeing it I can't say for sure obviously, but there is clearly something wrong. It may be possible to have a plumber diagnose the exact part, I had a quick search of the internet and it appears some parts are still available. Again, without seeing it, I can't recommend and exact...

OK, this is the Triton shower with the remotely located heater part yes? This has a safety pressure relief type valve inside, check the overflow pipe from the remote unit to see if it has water coming out? If so it may be suffering from internal scale, scale on the shower head and hose also...

blytha, I understand now, can see why you're doing it. I presume you've looked at the Y-plan wiring diagram already for the Salus? It just seems as though the only way is to wire it from the wiring centre direct, hence making (unfortunately for aesthetics) the Drayton the best bet to wire it...

Looking back, can you even read from the display if it is running in "low pressure" now its broken? Have you tried any isolation valves and even your mains stopcock to ensure they are open properly? There are such things as pumped electric showers by the way.

That sounds bugging... To be honest, it depends on what you're looking to buy. I would recommend, don't buy cheap, buy brand - which still have budget ranges. Depending if you can wangle some discount at a merchants, it may be cheaper to get a local plumber to supply and fit. For example...