Recent content by holla

Thanks for the quick reply. I did turn it when I started work on it earlier because I wasn't sure what is was for but since it this whole leaking issue started I assumed it was running down somewhere and dripping off there as a result. Or maybe it was and now it is actually leaking. No way to...

Looks like I may need to buy a new cap and microswitch if it still leaks once this pipe/tap bit is sorted and it turns out it still leaks once under proper pressure. I do need to understand what I can do about that leaking black tap first though.

Hi iancmd... I've only just got around to tackling this for various reasons. I've unscrewed the four screws, undid the nut for the sensing pipe at the back and removed the diverter cap bit. I have replaced the diaphragm, mushroom bit with the rod, the gland and the washer that goes with it...

Thank you for the link and advice. I have attached a picture. From the set of bits and pieces in the link, it looks like the smaller black diaphragm may be what's needed if water is getting past and up the pin. Do you think it might be possible to remove the switch with the screws, one of...

I wasn't sure if you were serious and I had to check to make sure I'd posted in the correct forum but as far as I can tell I have. Like many people I have replaced parts or repaired existing parts inside a boiler successfully with no certified training. I was hoping for some advice on what I...

We have a Potterton Performa 24 combi boiler which has started to leak at the little rod that moves to activate the switch when the hot water is running. For reference it's item 130 in the following image; https://www.heatingspareparts.com/boiler-diagrams/potterton/performa-spc-24?gid=16473...

It's a Potterton Performa 24, combi.

Hello again folks.. When running the hot water the pin on the diverter doesn't come out. If I push the microswitch manually the boiler fires up but the water still comes out cold. If the pin is triggered by water flow then is it possible something it blocked? Otherwise activating the switch...

This morning the other half cleaned the cobwebs out and now everything is working well, the boiler fires up fine! I bought some formic acid, called Kilrock, which I'll try on the plate at the weekend. Worked a treat on the kettle just now.

It still sounds like there's water in the plate which won't come out as it gurgles for a few seconds when you tip it from side to side.

Cleaning the plate with that Ferox didn't seem to do much. Some more flakes came out but the flame comes on for neither the hot water or the heating. What's your suspicion?

No, it's just mine. If this fails then I'll try some brick acid, thanks. Does the phe need water in when I refit? Do you know why the boiler won't fire since I refitted it? Or is something like bit enough water in it and pressure related?

I've disconnected the phe and tried blasting water through it with a hose. There was a fair amount of black flakes that came out so I refitted it and now there boiler doesn't ignite. I can lift the little metal switch on what I think is the diverter and it'll fire up but the pin doesn't raise...

I misunderstood. I have drained the boiler via the drain cock as per the linked page, closed it off again and pumped ev to 7.5psi and then drained again. I did that about 5 5-6 times and about three quarters of a bucket of water had been removed and then inflating the ev to 7.5 and trying to...

I took it upon myself to have a go before your reply and drained the boiler to nearly 0, then isolated the water and pumped until the boiler was at .5 bar. Checked with my gauge and it was 7.5 psi so all good. I enabled the water again and ran the tap... It went for about a minute and got...