Ok, for whatever reason the engineer and user codes had ended up back at 1234 and 5678, mine were erased. The area programming also seemed screwed up as the quick arm and part arm functions i had set were lost.
I managed to get the ricochet monitor working and luckily all my wireless devices...
Got it into engineering mode, Com2 connected ok, UDL at the panel is 1234, sent account data to panel twice......
On the diagnostic tab in wintex i have 3 red leds now.
Engineer working
system open
UDL enabled
Well it was in constant alarm and nothing silenced it so i disconnected the panel lid and internal sounder. When i then connected wintex and looked at the diagnostics i remember i had 3 red lights - one was confirm devices, another was the UDL but to be honest i didn't know what this meant at...
I obviously did more than i should have but cant really remember now, dont ask - bad day, rushing about, doing a million things at once etc.
Reloading the profile does nothing, the panel wouldn't even accept the engineer or user codes and was just alarming internally until i managed to use the...
I have a 64-w system, some wired zones, some wireless. Installed and programmed this all myself years ago. Anyways, few days ago it started randomly false alarming from one of the wireless door contacts...... i wont go into details but in my rushed state to set the sensor to 'not used' i tried...
Thanks for that opps, rang Bnq this morning who were useless...........i hung up when they passed me onto the 4th person who 'could give me advice'........complete joke of a 'service'
Emulsion on the metal poles isnt going to cut it i dont think, i did try a sample area and the paint just chips...
I have just finished installing some room divider panels from BnQ. I have used the good home alara range as seen in the link below.
https://www.diy.com/departments/doors-windows/internal-doors/room-dividers/DIY570035.cat?Range=Alara
These are paintable according to the instructions/website but...
telford tornado stainless.
The system has a red expansion vessel on the outside which is at 1 bar, presumably this is the heating.
The cylinder has a white vessel inside it from what i could see which was split.
Following on from my post a few days ago looking regarding my broken water cylinder i had a plumber come out to quote me to fix.
He pointed out what had happened. There is an expansion vessel (white coloured) actually inside the unvented cylinder. The expansion vessel had a big split in the top...
so new boiler and new unvented tank...........likely cost including labour?
vs the cost of converting to combi boiler?
although i acknowledge that im not a fan of combi boilers either and im guessing the fact i have a bath and water fed shower will mean a decent size combi would be needed to...
Just a thought i have had overnight. The just replaceing the tank seems the cheapest and best solution but is there an argument to be had that because the boiler is 15/16 year old i could end up replacing that aswell soon? It is a glowworm boiler but im unsure how good/long they generally last.
Thanks quilts i would make sure to check for qualification. The current tank is a telford although google tells me several brands are available, any to stay away from in particular?
Is it worth replacing the 15 year old pump at the same time?
Is that £800 including Labour?
Ok so keeping the system looks best (not a fan of combi's myself to be honest). Is the qualification for unvented cyclinders common, obviously when i speak to someone about it they will tell me if they have it or not.
The property has one bath and one water fed shower in a seperate en-suite. Am...
Would appreciate some general advice on the following please.
Our system comprises of a glow-worm boiler and a tornado stainless 170 litre unvented tank upstairs in the airing cupboard. On the top of this is a little red expansion vessel with a gauge on it. There is nothing in the loft. Is this...