Recent content by kiesh

oh right, so if its not working by this time tmoro its probably time to get a new fridge! £100 would pay for a replacement... although may well break soon too.... decisions decisions Kiesh

I Have found the problem on the board! I used the good old electricians nose and sniffed the board to try and locate burnt parts, and hey presto, one of the green 100ohm 5W resistors next to the power suply on the board is blown to bits on the underside (against the board) i have put a multi...

thanks again rocks1, thats re-assuring i'll update tmoro then. Thanks for your reply, do you know where i can find out what the diverter valve looks like?!

Meant to ask, whats the part number for the PCB? ive looked on mine and non of the numbers on the sticker match any of the part numbers ive seen! (Also, long shot... but hasnt anyone had a bash at reparing the PCB?! considering its a £160 part, i'm surprised no-ones found its weak spot and...

If theres anywhere i can get a used PCB that anyone knows abouti'd really appreciate it, reason being im fairly sure it was the low gas pressure that caused all the problems, and that is sorted now. I could get an engineer out but im not sure how much that will cost, and its always far more...

OK, i defrosted the unit all weekend (3 days...) and cleaned it! i turned it back on today and.... no change, fridge isnt getting remotely cold, just sits it 12°C while the freezer gets MEGA cold... IS there a pipe i can check for being blocked, while the fridge/freezer are still relatively...

Right, success. i couldn't get replacement seals, so i used HT sanitary silicone and bodged the old ones, replaced the switch (thanks to streifenfeuer on ebay, £8_) i broke when taking the tub off the base and it all works again, seems not be leaking, and operates as before, good stuff...

nope, no heating or hot water since then, except i do have an emersion heater on the hot water, so not a complete nightmare! if the pcbs are only 16 where do you getthem from?

£16 or £160? if its £16 i'll give it a shot? but im guessing you meant 160?

thanks for that, i was expecting it to be the PCB, as this seems common... pressing the reset button seems not to do anything at all, does this mean the reset button is knackered too!? i try turning the boiler off and on again and still get the code, so looks bad. any idea where a good place to...

hi again, i have removed the black plastic 'u bend' type unit and cleaned that out, is that the sump or is there more? ive also replaced the fuse on the circuit board, and now get an alternating E/H code on the boiler! any ideas what that code means? kieran

thanks for that chap, just got the switch off ebay for £8 delivered from germnay! hopefully thats the end of it. will update when its fitted. thanks for the help everyone Kiesh

Rocks1, is that a part you have or can tell me where to get it? cheers Kieran

both are getting on toward being empty because of it not working properly, but there is loads of space around the unit's back and sides...

no never tried that, i will empty it this weekend and give it a go, thanks for the advice, i'll post my findings on here!