Recent content by kriss_boy

SOLVED!!!! it was because the timer link was missing.... Thanks for all your help! I had the wiring wrong anyway!! Doh!!!

I spotted this post. You guys advised this guy remove the small link piece and then move brown from 1 to 3. I can try this... but why does he have two cables going in to each of the and L terminals in the reciever? I just have one each which is a feed from the boiler.

So on the boiler, originally there was just a mini red loop closing the two connectors. Now each of those has a wire running to positions 1 and 3. But still nothing. Turning the stat up and down I can see the receiver click on and off.... but the boiler just doesn’t fire up!

Surely I dont need to plug this old thing back on and set it to always on?! For hive to then work?

So now I’ve got.... But still nothing.... app on my phone and the thermostat seem to show same temp, and sync to one another... but although it says “heating on” when I turn up the desired temp, the boiler does nothing!

I cannot for the life of me get hive to work. There’s just no response from the boiler! From the boilers power supply, I’ve taken N, L and Es into the hive reciever. Then from the boilers thermostat terminals I’ve taken a blue and brown to positions 2 and 3. I’ve added a link from L to common...

Hi, I understand I need to backfill my cast iron insert fire with vamiculite. That I cannot simply slide the insert into the builders opening and leave a large void behind it. Can I reuse the old red bricks to form this smaller opening? They will be behind the insert and not on show. Or do...

Sorry it is 22mm! I turned off a stop cock that was linked to the header tank- and the dripping has stopped. Is this a coincidence of should, theoretically, the whole header tank should leak through this valve until its empty and the leaking will stop? ie. do I need to drain the header...

I isolated and drained a radiator to remove it to carry out repairs to my property. The valve however is now leaking at the point it joins the 20mm copper pipe that comes up through the floor at the thermostatic valve end. So I need to remove this valve, replace or reapply plumbing tape...

Hi, Check out the tutorial on this bmw site. http://www.unitedbimmer.com/kb-e36-carpetdying.php

It will be a ver, very laborious job caulking it all and touching it all up. Is this something that only happens once? The paint shrinks the wood, and so just one touch up should be the final work on it? Ive got more rooms to do but im tempted to do a couple of coats then wait a few weeks...

The painted skirtings and facings have all appeared to have shrunk and thus cracked? What options do I have? Use painters caulk and just touch it up? How would I avoid this? Paint the skirtings with a rough coat then wait a month till they crack, to then put the finsihing coat on? :shock...