Heating Idiot!

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I isolated and drained a radiator to remove it to carry out repairs to my property.

The valve however is now leaking at the point it joins the 20mm copper pipe that comes up through the floor at the thermostatic valve end. So I need to remove this valve, replace or reapply plumbing tape.

The radiator is on the top floor if that makes a difference and none of my rads have a drain on them.

Do I simply tie up the the floating arm/turn off the valve to the header tank and then let that volume of water pass through the valve until the flow stops? Then I can carry out the repair?

Its an old non-combi boiler. I have a hot water cylinder and a header tank in the loft...

Thanks :)
 
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you dont have 20 mm pipe anywhere on your heating system, you will have 22 mm a big difference if you are buying fittings to carry out your task
 
22mm X 3/4" TRV....in a domestic install? Rare as rocking horse sh1t.
 
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Sorry it is 22mm!

I turned off a stop cock that was linked to the header tank- and the dripping has stopped. Is this a coincidence of should, theoretically, the whole header tank should leak through this valve until its empty and the leaking will stop?

ie. do I need to drain the header tank before removing the valve to replace/repair?

Ta,
 
If you have a conventional system

Turn clock/programmer off


Get a 22mm speed fit stop end, put that on the heating vent pipe ( the one that extends over your small tank.

Twist a carrier bag up and turn it into the outlet in the small tank to bung it.

You have now created a vacuum


Tie a tea towel around the pipe, undo the nut, and wrap some PTFE tape around the olive clockwise then do nut back up

You have probably overtightened the nut and this should DIY fix it
 
A classic case of failing to "Hold against" when tightening or undoing the Radiator unions I suspect :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
 
Once I found a pron mag blocking a CWS down from a storage cistern :mrgreen:
 
I doubt it's 22mm going to the rad valve more than likely 15mm
 

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