Recent content by larrylamb11

Thanks for your thoughts. I plan to do some exploratory work to check on the size of the cavity, then let an IG L1 (or similar) into the inner leaf from inside on 100mm bearings, if possible... then cut the window recess out externally and fit the frame directly. I think with some careful...

THAT is one of the questions! Do I actually need a lintel in the outer skin? If I do, I am going to have to try and fit it from reverse, through the inner leaf.... not easy. I am wondering if the wooden window will be sufficient to act as a lintel in the outer skin.... Its a small opening and...

Any suggestions for something smaller? The roof isn't supported by a ridge beam - there is a ridge board, but the roof is supported by chunky purlins with queen struts and tie beams.

Grappling with a little project and having a headache with a window..... I am putting a little window (building regs fire escape size 600mm wide x 750mm tall) in the gable end of a single storey loft conversion - the room is tiny, 1.7m wide with vertical walls just 1.2m running into skeelings...

I am in the middle of a project that includes a little bit of drylining - I have some plumbing run on the surface of a bare brick internal wall and am going to be drylining this wall to A) cover the plumbing and B) finish the wall. When drylining an internal wall, do I still need a vapour...

Ok. Glad i asked then. I have some 22 to 15 Speedfit reducers, so I will use them with the right inserts in the Hep and JG pipes and just make the joint in pushfit. Saves some faffing about anyway.

Really? I thought it was a no-no to mix different manufacturers pipes and fittings, no? Is the likelihood of a leak on a pushfit fitting similar to that of a compression fitting? Reason being if this fitting leaks it will be a right mess to clean up as it is in the loft.... the thought of a...

I have to make a straight connection between two plastic plumbing pipes - one of the pipes is 15mm JG Speedfit, the other 22mm Hepworth and they need joining together with a joint that has the lowest probability of leaking (the pipes are buried in a roof crawl space).... So I am thinking...

The fact that the door frame has fire proofing strips and that the door is heavy suggests that the door is a rated fire door.... in which case it should have CE marked hinges suitable for a fire door - if you replace these with ones on which you can pull out the pin, make sure they are correctly...

Job done. Thanks for all the advice, I picked up spme planed 25mm x 175mm timber at Jewsons and built the lining from that. Now its fitted it is good and sturdy as well as being a good size opening in a tight spot. Mission accomplished 8)

You are quite right - I just checked, thats a nominal size.... so it would be anything between 4mm and 6mm smaller than that..... hmmmm.... is that going to be too thin then? I must confess it 'looked' and 'felt' about right in terms of sturdiness. It would be so much easier if they just gave...

OK, been to Jewsons for a look-see..... hefted a bit of 18mm timber and its too thin, as you say... far too wobbly. Happily they stock 25mm X 175mm planed square edge which will be near enough perfect (although not exactly cheap at £5.70/m :roll: ). So I am now thinking I will get a load of...

There is already a lintel, so thick and thin might work - good idea. I was planning on buying just one piece of wood though. I am going to go to Jewsons over lunch and see what they have....

I can't buy an off-the shelf door lining the right size to fit an aperture in my old house... its really low and narrow (like 5ft x 2ft) but the wall is thick... So, I am thinking of buying some of this...

I have recently acquired a table to go in the kitchen and perform general family duties. Its lovely (IMHO) being an old one full of character and with the top made from just 2 really wide planks with a thin one joining them together - I think its pine, but am not very good at identifying old...