Recent content by lmhud

This is now sorted. Bit of a small gap on right hand side but you can’t see it as it’s to close to the window wall. Thanks for all the replies.

No. Gap on either left or right side depending on where I put it

Would one of these work?

Touches top and bottom.

Slightly too wide. So the yellow locking tabs don’t catch the tiles.

Tiler has cut hole in the tile slightly too big for the drywall back box to house a fused spare for a macerator. Any idea how to fix it. Thanks

It’s the tiles from the double socket going towards the window.

It’s a utility room, and yes it will require tiling.

Hi. I’ve got the old tiles off but there are a lot of holes where the adhesive has pulled it off. I’m not tiling but would like it ready for a tiler when I get one. So. Do I skim the wall, can it be just tiled over or do I cut out the damaged area and put new plasterboard up. See photos...

Okay guys. Done it and it’s easier than I thought. To remove the wires you just push down on the small grey plungers and the wires just pull out. To put wires in you only need to push them, no need to push plungers down but you can to make it easier. Hope this helps others.

3rd photo is the new replacement, photo 2 is the failed unit.

Hi. Replacing one of these that has failed like for like. It says easy push connectors. I can’t see how to remove the wires from failed unit. Any tips. I just don’t want to damage anything by pulling the wires out. Thanks.

If using crimps would you twist, solder and use heat shrink cover ?

Don’t know what crimps are but will look at a 30a choc bloc

That was my plan but I wanted to check it was legal before doing it.