Recent content by mariaarthur

thanks for the reply paul. if you understand correctly the ply/hardibacker/natural stone tile will have a 4" wide void underneath it & will be supported either side of this void a further 2". ie an 8" wide strip. whichever method i use i guess i am going to have to use screws & adhesive...

someone has suggested today to fill the lower channel with sand & compact it down, then to cut to size some marble or similar natural stone tiles to fit in the channel between the bitumen & use tile adhesive to fix them into place. this strikes me as a clever idea as the natural stone tile...

thanks for the speedy reply eric/mark. i see i'm not alone in picking a double barreled name :lol: i have another option to run the cabling in when the new kitchen goes in at some point in the future (maybe a year maybe five) & that is to run the cabling behind the kitchen units which is a...

hi. just a quick question as i am not doing this job but want to run the wiring in before i lay my new tile floor in my kitchen. does a cooker point need to be a ring or a spur from the fuseboard? i already have a spur from the board but it is only in 2.5mm cable & running just a single...

hi all. first post here & i never thought i would need to after reading all the good advice on this site. i am tiling my kitchen/conservatory area (about 26m2) the floor is concrete with approx 12mm bitumen topping & i will be tiling it with 450x450mm ceramic tiles. all good so far i think...