new cooker supply

[mariaarthur]

hi.

just a quick question as i am not doing this job but want to run the wiring in before i lay my new tile floor in my kitchen.

does a cooker point need to be a ring or a spur from the fuseboard?

i already have a spur from the board but it is only in 2.5mm cable & running just a single oven. i am going to run some new cable (6mm) for a double oven to be insalled at some point an need to know if i should run 2 wires or just a single one.

many thanks for your replies.

 

[ericmark]

Most house electrics are run as radials which includes the cooker. Only the supply to sockets where every plug has a fuse is a ring main sometimes used.

The ring main and the 13 amp fused plug was developed during the war to reduce the amount of materials required post war in wiring a house. Although the advantages of the 13 amp fused plug as a valid today as they were in 1950's because of changes in building regulations the whole idea of a ring main has been brought into question.

I could sit and debate the pro's and con's but in real terms now one can't assume any power circuit with 13 amp sockets is a ring main. Although most likely it is.

But the problem with installing cable ready is who at the end of the day is going to sign the installation certificate and issue a completion certificate? I can fully see the sense of before decorating fitting cables which may be used later. But the rules say only the person overseeing the installation or doing the work can sign an installation certificate. So when you later ask an electrician to fit a cooker outlet using the cable you have so thoughtfully installed he will be unable to issue a completion certificate. In theory you should pay your £115 to council and then let them inspect as they feel fit at different stages. What I am not sure of is if you leave it 10 years before using the cable with the council allow you that time between starting and completing work?

To tell you about Part P after you have installed the cable is too late of course. Also if being installed for later use I see induction hobs are drawing far more current and you may be better with 10mm cable?

I would take pictures of every stage so much easier to view pictures than knock plaster off a wall to find cables. Do also remember to be able to install a cable you should keep within set routes and if there is nothing to show cable exists it is not following regulations so one in theory can't fit cable without fitting the device it terminates to. As one could in error damage the cable by drilling into it of knocking nails through it.

 

[mariaarthur]

thanks for the speedy reply eric/mark. i see i'm not alone in picking a double barreled name

i have another option to run the cabling in when the new kitchen goes in at some point in the future (maybe a year maybe five) & that is to run the cabling behind the kitchen units which is a straightforward route to the board, so i think i'll leave it till then & let the appropriate people sort it in full.

just seemed to me that now was the time to do it, running the cables alongside the original cooker feed in the service ducting under the floor. but bearing in mind the regulations you pointed me towards which i was not aware of i'll leave well alone.

again many thanks.