Recent content by Mr Chibs

I would say the screed looks like S&C, good news. What was pumped in then... presume it was the concrete under the screed?

I'm working on a garage conversion at the moment, just thought I'd mention if you are using building regs, insulation values are thicker than you may be intending to use. I was told the walls have to achieve .18 for U value. On a cavity wall with 75mm rock wool already, this will mean using...

Fair point, you have to think ahead a little more. If you are short hinges or need small extras, they will send them out. I'd never heard of them before a neighbour had mentioned them. I wouldn't fit anything else now.

Hi there I have a DIYK, it was half of Howdens quote. One thing I liked was the door fronts don't have caps covering the hinge cutouts like other kitchen companies, DIYK ones are hinged for the opening only. Looks a lot cleaner on the inside. Build quality is good, the backs are decent...

Personally, I'd prime, you stand a greater risk of the tiles coming loose when/if water can get underneath them. When I have lifted 'primed' tiles/slabs, it usually lifts the sub base (lime) up with the tile. Un primed tiles/slabs can usually be separated. I like to use a slurry of cement and...

If you're DIY savvy, you should be able to do this yourself. Scroll down to the YouTube clips, will give you an idea of what's involved. Flashing clips Stepped flashing is what should be installed, but I have see numerous installations of just running the grinder above the tile line and using...

A good few months ago, I had to remove the grout from a floor ( 25m²) it was a very poor job. Through gritted teeth, I bought on of these: Grout rake Surprisingly it did the job well, a little time consuming but easy to DIY. You have to be fairly careful with the new grout, especially if it's...

I recently knocked down a wall 8.5m long, couple of small piers, wall around 900mm tall, single brick, footing was 150mm thick one end and a stingy 30mm :oops: thick at the other end, wall had stood for years until it was replaced, on sandy soil. Think you'll be good.

If it was me, I would pack out the gaps with slivers, cut down the length of your 3x2. Easy to cut down, say a few mm thick, with a circular saw. You can cut longer tapered pieces too. I wouldn't use end grain, it falls apart, when tapping in. I'd then use PU glue (slightly expanding, like...

Just need some advice regarding best way to claim for van expenses being self employed? I was reading up on capital allowance and flat rate per mile. I thought I would be able to pay for all expenses via business account and this would be knocked off any tax liability at year end. It seems...

If you need to introduce a slope, what about cutting some firring strips (long cheese wedge shape), and attaching along your rafters? as they do for flat roofing. If you have a circular/table saw, you can get two strips from a length of wood.

With regards to birdsmouth cuts, yes, usually one third of material can be removed. On the roofs I've see with 45x95 timbers, they are plumb cuts, never seen a birds mouth on that size. Wasn't aware of the 30° limit on the hangers. These are meant to be good for up to 45° LSSR or these LRUZ...

Presume you've seen these? Would this be of any use? Just looked at the tech specs, think they will be to tall for your wood section. Slope hangers Maybe this?? Ridge hanger

Morning. Sounds interesting. What's the span you are dealing with? As for hardware have you had a look through the Simpson website?

Could you staple/glue wide sheets of DPC on the back of the sleepers?